Wine Advisor
Rayas, Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2009 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape currently sits in three separate foudres. I rated one foudre (92-95), the second (94-96) and the third (95-97), so it is certainly going to be a top-flight Rayas that should rank alongside the 2007. Sweet, jammy black raspberry, strawberry and cherry scents along with hints of balsam wood, spice and sandy, loamy soil undertones emerge from this 2009. The floral character of the red and black fruits dominates at present. Powerful yet silky with supple tannins, this multilayered, full-bodied red is remarkably light on its feet for such alcoholic power and richness. It should drink well for 15-20 years. (Not yet released) Rayas has one of the most unusual terroirs in Chateauneuf du Pape with sandy soils and a more northerly oriented exposure. To understand these wines, one must realize that this is a cool-climate terroir in a warm appellation. Emmanuel Reynaud, the nephew of the late Jacques Reynaud, has now been the sole winemaker and administrator here for 13 vintages and he appears to have settled in comfortably. His 2009s have turned out well in this challenging, drought plagued vintage. The white wines are always intriguing. In some vintages they are absolutely spectacular as well as long-lived and in others they are somewhat bizarre with a tendency to oxidize. 2009 appears to be a top-flight year for the whites. I tasted the 2009 reds from an assortment of small barrels, demi-muids and foudres and putting together a score range takes some degree of extrapolation based on seeing all these different component parts. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2009 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is an awesome example of elegance combined with extraordinary power. The alcohol levels must be between 15.5% and 16%, but the elegance and sublime nature of this wine make it irresistible. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by an extraordinary bouquet of framboise, black cherry liqueur intermixed with blacker fruits, licorice and a hint of flowers. Pure with terrific layers of fruit concentration (although it's remarkably light on its feet), silky tannins, well-integrated acidity and a stunning personality, this monumental Rayas is breathtaking. This beauty will undoubtedly be drinkable early on (although Emmanuel Reynaud considers that to be infanticide), and it is capable of lasting 25-30 years. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
(basically 100% grenache): Deep red with a bright rim. A kaleidoscopic bouquet evokes red and dark berry preserves, blood orange and lavender, with deeper cherry pit and licorice qualities adding power. Sweet, expansive and pure, offering intense raspberry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors supported by a firm spine of acidity. Shows excellent clarity and power on the finish, which is given shape by fine-grained, sweet tannins. I underestimated this wine from barrel last year.
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
Component #1: High-pitched, spicy red fruit and blood orange on the nose and in the mouth. Tangy, precise and showing plenty of spice. Lots of red fruit here. Component #2: Deep cherry and black raspberry character, marked by an exotic floral nuance and good tannic structure. The floral quality hangs on with impressive tenacity. Component #3: Blackberry and bitter cherry on the nose and palate. Creamy but lively, with strong thrust and spiciness. A note of licorice comes up with air and adds a serious quality. The final wine should be a well-structured, ample Rayas that will reward aging.
About the Producer
Back in 1880, General Albert Reynaud bought Chateau Rayas in the Rhone Valley. It is now run by Emmanuel Reynaud. The Reynaud family has owned the estate for over 120 years. For four generations, the Reynaud family has worked hard to transform the estate from a small, unknown winery to a leading Rhone Valley winery. When Château Rayas was first purchased by Albert Reynaud, it had a small, unassuming vineyard on sandy, north-facing soils that were not well insulated or sunlit. Today the estate has 25 hectares of vineyards and the vines are on average 35 years old. The success of the estate is due to the persistence and innovation of its owners. Originally, the tradition in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region was to make wine from a mix of grape varieties, but Mr Albert Renaud took a different approach and abandoned the tradition of using a mix of grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape to make wine from local Grenache grapes and a small amount of Syrah. The result is a top-notch Chateauneuf-du-Pape red wine (Chateau Rayas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape) that overcomes all its shortcomings. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is matured in old barrels for 2-3 years before being released to the market and is produced in very low yields, at a price that is the best in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. It is highly regarded by the public: the 1996 vintage was awarded 98 points by the Wine Spectator in 2006, the highest score in the appellation that year. The 2005 and 2003 vintages were also rated 98 and 95 points respectively by Parker. Château Rayas sells its wines under the name "Château Rayas", but also under the names "Château de Fonsalette" and "Pignan". Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape. The wines of Chateauneuf du Pape are comparable to those of Château de Fonsalette. The red wines of Château de Rothschild are smooth and elegant, while the white wines are fresh and have a long lasting aroma. The red wines of Château Fonsalie are full-bodied and ripe, while the white wines have aromas of nectarine and apricot. In the Renault family, which is aimed at the top end of the market, the Pinot is the second wine of Château Rijas and has a similar style to the main Rijas, with a medium body, attractive black cherry and fig flavours and a sweet taste.
