Wine Advisor
Rayas, Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve 1998
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1998 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is fabulous. The harvest took place in late September, and yields were a microscopic 10-15 hectoliters per hectare. The 1998 certainly exhibits a dense, concentrated, dark ruby/purple color, with that fabulous essence of raspberry jam and kirsch well-displayed. It is full-bodied, with considerable volume and power, as well as a gorgeously long, 40+ second finish. This wine should require 5-6 years of cellaring. Make no doubt about it, the 1998 is sensational!
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
There is no doubting the extraordinary depth and layers of flavor the 1998 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape contains. The color is medium to deep ruby, and the bouquet offers aromas of ripe strawberry and cherry candy, with kirsch liqueur thrown in for additional interest. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and fat, with high levels of sweet fruit, a velvety texture, multiple dimensions, and an explosive finish. It is an undeniably sexy, compelling Rayas that is already performing exceptionally well, despite having been bottled only a few months ago. There are several thousand additional bottles available for the world's market. My best guess is that this voluptuous, sexy Rayas should drink well young, yet age easily for 15-16 years. Do not be surprised to see it put on considerable weight over the next few years. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
A controversial wine, the 1998 Rayas revealed light color, and remains in a funky, closed state. The texture, flesh, and singular Rayas character are present in the mouth, but the nose is muted, revealing only mushroom, earthy, sweet cherry/kirsch notes. I am not convinced that it is simply in a "dumb" stage, so it needs to be monitored. Give it another two years to shed what appears to be an overly aggressive use of SO2 at bottling. It should keep for 15-16 years, and, hopefully, develop the magic one expects from this hallowed estate. At a tasting in late October, the wine finally lived up to the 94 rating. Issue #131 rating: 94
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Although the 1998 is not among the most compelling wines of the vintage, it continues to put on weight and performs better and better with each tasting. It appears to be the finest effort Emmanuel Reynaud has yet produced. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1998 Rayas has sweet kirsch liqueur notes, the color is disturbingly light, which doesn’t normally bother me, but there is also burgeoning orange and rust at the edge. The wine is medium to full-bodied, displays loads of cedar, loamy soil notes, balsam wood, pepper, and garrigue. There is nothing wrong with this wine, and if you haven’t had any of the really great vintages of Rayas (1981, 1985, 1989, 1990, 1995), readers would probably think it’s a super wine. However, I have had great ones, and drink them quite frequently, so for me this is just a good, not profound Rayas. Moreover, I think it needs to be consumed over the next 5-7 years before it loses any intensity. I have never been a big fan of the wines from Rayas in 1998, the first top vintage controlled by Emmanuel Reynaud after the death of his uncle, Jacques Reynaud. As a postscript, having visited here every year for at least two decades, Emmanuel Reynaud hit his stride with Rayas by 2001, and produced awesome wines in 2005 and 2007.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Everyone who cherishes the wine from this extraordinary estate has been hoping that the late Jacques Reynaud's magic would continue under the direction of his sister, Francoise, and her nephew, Emmanuel Reynaud. Since this wine was tasted immediately after the harvest, it has gained enormous weight and richness. The fabulous 1998 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is a prodigious effort. The harvest took place in late September, and yields were a microscopic 10-15 hectoliters per hectare. Emmanuel Reynaud feels the 1998 is very tannic. It exhibits a dense, concentrated, dark ruby/purple color, with that fabulous essence of raspberry jam and kirsch well-displayed. It is full-bodied, with considerable volume and power, as well as a gorgeously long, 40+ second finish. This wine should require 5-6 years of cellaring. Make no doubt about it, the 1998 is a sensational Rayas! Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
About the Producer
Back in 1880, General Albert Reynaud bought Chateau Rayas in the Rhone Valley. It is now run by Emmanuel Reynaud. The Reynaud family has owned the estate for over 120 years. For four generations, the Reynaud family has worked hard to transform the estate from a small, unknown winery to a leading Rhone Valley winery. When Château Rayas was first purchased by Albert Reynaud, it had a small, unassuming vineyard on sandy, north-facing soils that were not well insulated or sunlit. Today the estate has 25 hectares of vineyards and the vines are on average 35 years old. The success of the estate is due to the persistence and innovation of its owners. Originally, the tradition in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region was to make wine from a mix of grape varieties, but Mr Albert Renaud took a different approach and abandoned the tradition of using a mix of grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape to make wine from local Grenache grapes and a small amount of Syrah. The result is a top-notch Chateauneuf-du-Pape red wine (Chateau Rayas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape) that overcomes all its shortcomings. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is matured in old barrels for 2-3 years before being released to the market and is produced in very low yields, at a price that is the best in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. It is highly regarded by the public: the 1996 vintage was awarded 98 points by the Wine Spectator in 2006, the highest score in the appellation that year. The 2005 and 2003 vintages were also rated 98 and 95 points respectively by Parker. Château Rayas sells its wines under the name "Château Rayas", but also under the names "Château de Fonsalette" and "Pignan". Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape. The wines of Chateauneuf du Pape are comparable to those of Château de Fonsalette. The red wines of Château de Rothschild are smooth and elegant, while the white wines are fresh and have a long lasting aroma. The red wines of Château Fonsalie are full-bodied and ripe, while the white wines have aromas of nectarine and apricot. In the Renault family, which is aimed at the top end of the market, the Pinot is the second wine of Château Rijas and has a similar style to the main Rijas, with a medium body, attractive black cherry and fig flavours and a sweet taste.
