Wine Advisor
Rayas, Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve 1990
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
As I wrote in my book The Wines of the Rhone Valley, it would be a shame to go through life without tasting this wine. Sadly, there are a number of fraudulent bottlings (both 750ml and magnums) in the marketplace, but the real thing is one of the most phenomenally stuffed wines ever made. Dark ruby/purple-colored, with an over-ripe nose of black cherry jam, kirsch liqueur, raspberries and minerals, this exceptionally full-bodied Chateauneuf du Pape boasts layers of concentration, glycerin, and alcohol (in excess of 15%). The massive alcohol is well-concealed by the wine's spectacular extract and density. Low in acidity and unbelievably sumptuous, it is ideal for consuming now and over the next 10-15+ years. The quintessential Rayas, it is one of the most hedonistic and compelling wines ever made.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1990 Rayas may be the most prized wine in my personal collection. I would not trade it for anything less than a pristine bottle of 1921, 1929, 1961, or 1947 Petrus! Produced from an extremely late harvest, with awesome sugar readings and ripeness, Reynaud's 1990 Rayas is quintessential Rayas, as one of the greatest young red wines I have ever tasted. It is exceptionally opulent, thick, and juicy, with an over-ripe kirsch/cherry intensity that has not yet begun to take on secondary aromas or character. Massive, viscous, and exceptionally full-bodied and alcoholic (it must be pushing 15%), this luscious, unctuously-textured wine is spectacular to drink, even though it has not yet begun to take on any of the mature gamey characteristics its closest rival, the phenomenal 1978, has possessed for over a decade. Life is too short not to drink as much of this wine as possible! Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Imported by Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800, Wines of France, Alain Junguenet, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1990 Rayas may be the most prized wine in my personal collection. I would not trade it for anything less than a pristine bottle of 1921, 1929, 1961, or 1947 Petrus! Produced from an extremely late harvest, with awesome sugar readings and ripeness, Reynaud's 1990 Rayas is quintessential Rayas, and one of the greatest young red wines I have ever tasted. It is exceptionally opulent, thick, and juicy, with an overripe kirsch/cherry intensity that has not yet begun to take on secondary aromas or character. Massive, viscous, and exceptionally full-bodied and alcoholic (it must be pushing 15%), this luscious, unctuously textured wine is spectacular to drink, even though it has not yet begun to take on any of the mature gamy characteristics its closest rival, the phenomenal 1978, has possessed for over a decade. Life is too short not to drink as much of this wine as possible! Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Last tasted 9/96.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Remarkably, Jacques Reynaud's 1990 is even better than his 1989. It appears to be the best wine produced at this property since 1978. The yields were under one ton per acre (14 hectoliters per hectare), and the natural alcohol level must be well above the 14% stated on the label. Yet this exquisite Chateauneuf du Pape, with its bouquet that represents the essence of black cherry and blackberry fruit intertwined with intensely spicy aromas, as well as those of roasted nuts, is thrilling. On the palate, the wine, which has not gone into any after-bottling shock, is amazingly infantile in terms of its development. The massive richness, expansive, sweet, full-bodied, chewy texture, and spectacularly long finish make this one of the most decadently flavored wines I have ever encountered. I would suggest tasting a bottle just so you know what this eccentric genius is capable of producing. Then put a few bottles away for at least 7-8 years. I would admire Jacques Reynaud even if he did not make profound wine because of his outspoken anti-oenologist, anti-technology, and anti-commercialism philosophy. What marvels emerge from some of the dingiest, most cramped, unsightly wine cellars in the world! Importers: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA and Robert Chadderdon Imports, New York, NY.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
As for the 1990, I have had the good fortune to drink nearly three cases, and it has been one of the triumphs of my cellar. A mere 1-2 years ago, I enjoyed a succession of perfect “100 point” bottles, but the last several bottles have merited 96-100 points, perhaps revealing the direction of this wine’s evolution. Nevertheless, this is riveting stuff. A legendary Rayas made from extremely ripe Grenache, it exhibits notes of over-ripe kirsch, raspberries, cherries, game, licorice, and tobacco. This unctuously-textured, thick, juicy Chateauneuf must tip the scale at 15.5% alcohol. It is truly a Rhone Valley monument. Owners, however, should consume it over the next 8-10 years. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Remarkably, Jacques Reynaud's 1990 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is even better than his 1989. It appears to be the best wine produced at this property since 1978. The yields were under one ton per acre (14 hectoliters per hectare), and the natural alcohol level must be well above the 14% stated on the label. Yet this exquisite Chateauneuf du Pape, with its bouquet that represents the essence of black cherry and blackberry fruit intertwined with intensely spicy aromas, as well as those of roasted nuts, is thrilling. On the palate, the wine, which has not gone into any after-bottling shock, is amazingly infantile in terms of its development. The massive richness, expansive, sweet, full-bodied, chewy texture, and spectacularly long finish make this one of the most decadently flavored wines I have ever encountered. I would suggest tasting a bottle just so you know what this eccentric genius is capable of producing. Then put a few bottles away for at least 7-8 years. Importers: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA and Robert Chadderdon Imports, New York, NY.
About the Producer
Back in 1880, General Albert Reynaud bought Chateau Rayas in the Rhone Valley. It is now run by Emmanuel Reynaud. The Reynaud family has owned the estate for over 120 years. For four generations, the Reynaud family has worked hard to transform the estate from a small, unknown winery to a leading Rhone Valley winery. When Château Rayas was first purchased by Albert Reynaud, it had a small, unassuming vineyard on sandy, north-facing soils that were not well insulated or sunlit. Today the estate has 25 hectares of vineyards and the vines are on average 35 years old. The success of the estate is due to the persistence and innovation of its owners. Originally, the tradition in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region was to make wine from a mix of grape varieties, but Mr Albert Renaud took a different approach and abandoned the tradition of using a mix of grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape to make wine from local Grenache grapes and a small amount of Syrah. The result is a top-notch Chateauneuf-du-Pape red wine (Chateau Rayas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape) that overcomes all its shortcomings. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is matured in old barrels for 2-3 years before being released to the market and is produced in very low yields, at a price that is the best in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. It is highly regarded by the public: the 1996 vintage was awarded 98 points by the Wine Spectator in 2006, the highest score in the appellation that year. The 2005 and 2003 vintages were also rated 98 and 95 points respectively by Parker. Château Rayas sells its wines under the name "Château Rayas", but also under the names "Château de Fonsalette" and "Pignan". Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape. The wines of Chateauneuf du Pape are comparable to those of Château de Fonsalette. The red wines of Château de Rothschild are smooth and elegant, while the white wines are fresh and have a long lasting aroma. The red wines of Château Fonsalie are full-bodied and ripe, while the white wines have aromas of nectarine and apricot. In the Renault family, which is aimed at the top end of the market, the Pinot is the second wine of Château Rijas and has a similar style to the main Rijas, with a medium body, attractive black cherry and fig flavours and a sweet taste.
