Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2005
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Fine Wine Experience’s Clos des Ducs vertical. Deep ruby colour. I was uncertain about this Clos des Ducs out of barrel, but this bottle indicates that any fears were unfounded. The ’05 has an understated nose at first: redcurrant, a touch of cranberry, a touch of violet and just a very faint touch of volatile lift. Superb definition. The palate is full-bodied, very concentrated and simply giving nothing away at the moment. Closed down, tightly coiled, the finish like a door slamming in your face and demanding you come back later...say in 10 years time. Drink 2015-2025. Tasted May 2010.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A of fruit concentration on the nose: mulberry, raspberry and a touch of dark chocolate. The palate is dense, structured with layers of toasty black fruits. Like the Taillepieds beside it, the wines seems a little overdone and lacking finesse unlike other samples which are exactly the opposite. Need to retaste this. Tasted January 2007.
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
The d’Angerville 2005 Volnay Clos des Ducs displays even more obvious structure than the Champans as well as concentration and complexity than the Taillepieds. Deep, rich meatiness, juicy fresh black fruits, bitter-sweet chocolate richness, ginger and cardamom, and chalky minerality are present throughout. This displays enough inner-mouth perfume and fineness of flavor to hold one’s interest and release one’s saliva for an extended period. Fine-grained and finely-integrated tannins are part of this wine’s tenacious cling. It will surely figure as one of the best in a long and distinguished line and be worth following for 15-20 years. This is one of those 2005s whose market price I have heard tell is bringing Pinot lovers to tears of despair, although the suggested retail pricing from the importer confirms the fact that neither they nor the domaine were greedy when it came to pricing this latest collection. (The impressively concentrated 2004 is a bit sweet-sour and faintly warm in finish today, but unlike so many wines of that vintage it is apt to have more to say for itself in another couple of years.) The late Jacques d’Angerville’s son Guillaume and long-time wine making collaborator and brother-in-law Renaud de Villette can boast a superb collection of 2005s, but an equally apt tribute to the legacy of the late Marquis are the odds-beating results they bottled from 2004, when to the universal difficulties of that vintage were added the ravages of hail it visited on Volnay. The 2005s fermented with pump-overs but no punch-downs and exhibit formidable underlying structure yet pure fruit and early, flattering textural development. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Full, dark red. Very dark aromas of black fruits, spices, violet, licorice and minerals still seem a bit stunted. Then powerful, mouthfilling and classically dry on the palate, conveying a musky, lightly medicinal character to its black cherry, black raspberry, licorice and leather flavors. From the start, this very broad Volnay was the most backward wine in the cellar in 2005 and its huge tongue- and palate-saturating tannins still call for patience. (13.4% alcohol; September 19 harvest; 41 h/h; 3.55 pH)
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
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