Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2020
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: William Kelley
The most reserved wine in the cellar is the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, a promising young wine that unwinds in the glass with aromas of red cherries and raspberries mingled with warm spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, powerful and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a youthfully tightly wound core, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish. It's a brilliant effort that will take some time to unwind.
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Readers will have a fun time debating the relative merits of d'Angerville's 2018, 2019 and 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs in 20 years' time, as for now it is a very close-run thing. The 2020 is certainly superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, plums and berries mingled with spices, orange zest, peony and discreet hints of oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and seamless palate that's bright, elegant and rich but refined. Of the trio, it's probably the 2020 that carries the sunshine and warmth of the vintage the most lightly, even though the year was, on paper, the most extreme.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru was picked around 23 August. It has a highly perfumed bouquet with rose petals, red cherries, raspberry and incenses, beautifully defined and wonderfully controlled. The palate also conveys a sense of effortlessness that is utterly beguiling. Very harmonious, balletically-poised thanks to its fine bead of acidity, this Clos des Ducs unfurls in the glass with a lilting, very pure and almost balletic finish. Quite saline on the aftertaste such that it urges you back for another sip. Sophisticated (as usual) yet delicious.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru was picked around 23 August. It has a highly perfumed bouquet with rose petals, red cherries, raspberry and incenses, beautifully defined and wonderfully controlled. The palate also conveys a sense of effortlessness that is utterly beguiling. Very harmonious, balletically-poised thanks to its fine bead of acidity, this Clos des Ducs unfurls in the glass with a lilting, very pure and almost balletic finish. Quite saline on the aftertaste such that it urges you back for another sip. Sophisticated (as usual) yet delicious.
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
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