Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 1993
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Fine Wine Experience’s Clos des Ducs vertical. Very clear in the glass, slightly deeper and more youthful in colour than say, the ’97 alongside. The nose is well defined, quite tight at first, a little meaty, with just a touch of leather. The palate is well balanced and very natural in style, a little edgy at first, very good acidity with a crescendo of tart mulberry and dark cherry fruits towards a structured but not tannic finish. Good length. Excellent. Drink now-2020+ Tasted May 2010.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
I have always rated this vintage of Clos des Ducs highly. Here, the 1993 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Dus is surprisingly backward on the nose that it demands coaxing, but is worth waiting for. It is beautifully defined with brambly black fruit and an undercurrent of singed leather and black truffle. The palate is earthy with plenty of mulberry fruit, the finish just a little frayed at the edges, affirming my thought back in 2010 that this vintage is entering its graceful decline. That said, I envisage this offering great pleasure over the next decade. Tasted November 2013.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
I only tasted two d'Angerville 1993s, both of which were excellent, potentially superb wines that have tamed the vintage's tannin, and achieved the great concentration and ripeness that many wines do not possess. The dark ruby/purple-colored Volnay Clos des Ducs offers a sweet attack, layers of black-cherry flavors, medium body, and considerable finesse, class, and character. The long finish reveals beautifully integrated tannin and oak. Drink it between 2002-2015. I have to admit I have consistently underrated the wines of d'Angerville, no doubt because of poor examples I tasted state-side that in retrospect were probably not handled properly in the distribution chain. However, vintages since 1989 have impressed me for their silky richness, firm structure, and pure, concentrated Pinot Noir fruit. I have come to believe that d'Angerville's lofty reputation is largely justified by his wines. In such top vintages as 1990 and 1993, these are wines that can be cellared for up to 15-20 years. Importer: Chateau and Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1993 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs was one of the surprise showings at the vertical in September 2010. Served blind four years later, it remains an excellent Clos des Ducs. It is bridled with immense purity and panache on the nose, so much so that it would be difficult to pin down as a '93. There is an earthy tincture that I did not recollect on the previous bottle. The palate is more open than the bottle I encountered last year (November 2013). It is very pure with red plum and mulberry fruit, touches of cassis and perhaps just lacking the joie de vivre that it had in abundance a decade ago. It is continuing a graceful decline albeit from a high point, so there is still at least 10 year's of enjoyment here.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1993 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is a beautiful wine that exudes purity on the nose, slightly tertiary in style (a facet that seems to have been accentuated with bottle age). The palate retains that exquisite mulberry fruit tinged with blueberry and subtle bay leaf notes, although I am parsimonious with my score because I often feel that it lacks vivacity on the finish. It continues to drink well, but I do not believe it aspires to be the greatest Clos des Ducs.
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
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