Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2014
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Medium red, the lightest of these 2014s. Reticent but highly nuanced nose offers aromas of redcurrant, dark raspberry, milk chocolate, earth and animal fur, plus a riper suggestion of prune (this fruit was picked at 13% potential alcohol). Wonderfully silky and ripe; large-scaled and round for 2014 but not at all heavy. Not as primary as the extraordinary 2015 but the wine's wonderfully refined, thoroughly ripe, late-arriving tannins will require considerable patience.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
(this fruit was picked at 13% potential alcohol and chaptalized 0. 3% to prolong the fermentation; the crop level was 30 hectoliters per hectare, as there was practically no hail here, according to Duvivier): Healthy medium red. Brooding, rather wild aromas of black fruits, spices, mint and espresso. Seriously rich, tactile and deep, conveying a strong impression of energy to the dark raspberry, earth and saline mineral flavors. No rough edges here, but the wine's elements still need more élevage to harmonize. Duvivier noted that this premier cru will be bottled last, probably in May. The strongly saline, very long finish leaves the salivary glands humming.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has a very complex and introverted, but captivating bouquet that draws you in, full of blackberry, briary, cold limestone and just a hint of baking powder in the background lending sweetness. The palate is sensual on the entry. There is roundness and depth here, coupled with very good substance, a hint of white pepper perhaps, and as always, with immense precision on the finish. There is nothing flamboyant here -- just a very aristocratic Volnay for long term aging.
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
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