Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 1996
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Fine Wine Experience’s Clos des Ducs vertical. The nose is very vegetal on the nose, unclean and oxidized. The palate is raw on the entry, rather volatile with sharp acidity, very green and mulchy on the finish. This is a vexing Volnay. Tasted May 2010.
Reviewed by: Pierre Rovani
I flipped over the Marquis d'Angerville's Volnay Clos Des Ducs. Sporting a medium-to-dark ruby color, this wine offers mouth-watering aromas of cream-covered black cherries and the inviting scents of a deep-dish cherry pie. Powerful and explosive layers of sweet red and black fruits greet the palate in this profound, broad, concentrated, and complex wine. It is slightly more structured, intense, and extracted than Volnay Taillepieds. It will also require more patience. Projected maturity: 2002-2008. The score, on a range and in parentheses, indicates that the wine was tasted from barrel. Jacques, Marquis d'Angerville produced stupendous wines in 1996. When we met in mid-November, just a few weeks after the unexpected death of Gerard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d'Or fame, d'Angerville seemed to be emotionally torn by his excitement over the "excellent millesime" and the sorrow he felt over the loss of his friend and colleague. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1996 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has always been a troubling wine for this writer. Here, I noticed a slight mustiness in colour compared to other vintages. It has a modest bouquet with light floral, wilted violet petal scents and mint, opening nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and quite structured, yet there is something "missing" at the centre. A heart perhaps? This feels uncharacteristically austere and bony on the finish. Guillaume d'Angerville opined that it was always hard to drink in its youth but is beginning to open. Personally, I would opt for the 1995 and not run the risk.
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
1993(1)1995(3)
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