Wine Advisor
Haut Brion Blanc 2005
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
2005 is an excellent vintage possessing high acidity as well as impressive levels of weight, richness, and texture.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Quite a deep lemon hue. Very concentrated nose, cooked apples, citrus fruits, not so much oak as usual. A touch of pineapple and passion fruit. Quite a rich, almost exotic Haut Brion Blanc with pineapple, citrus fruits and apple. Good acidity. Very well-balanced with a crisp citrus finish. Very fine, just a little too showy at this stage. Tasted April 2006.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Another excellent vintage for Bordeaux's dry whites, which tend to be vastly underrated and exceptionally long-lived (30-40 years in some cases). The 2005s possess crisp acidity as well as serious weight, richness, and texture. Space constraints did not allow full tasting notes, but this is one of the top 2005 dry white Bordeaux wines.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
While not as concentrated or monumental as this estate’s 1989, the 2005 is a fleshy, racy, hypothetical blend of the 1994 and 1998 Haut-Brion, only better. It boasts a gorgeous perfume of citrus oil, lime, honeyed grapefruit, flowers, spicy smoke, and earth, followed by terrific definition, purity, and full-bodied power, but it is not as masculine as its closest competitor, Laville Haut-Brion. The 2005 Haut-Brion will be approachable early, but it should age well for 30-40 years.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted single blind at Southwold. Again, the nose is very simple, wet wool aromas coming through. The palate has a viscous, slightly honeyed, marmalade tinged entry, nice acidity and good weight, the Semillon driving on the waxy, honeyed finish. Good length. This is a very fine white Pessac, although it is not necessarily the best of the vintage. Drink 2011-2025. Tasted January 2009.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The mineral-laced 2005 Haut Brion (56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc) is exquisite. With its elegance and finesse, it is not as powerful as La Mission, but the nobility and complexity of the aromatics, incredible fragrance (subtle smoke and blue, red, and black fruits) that persists in the glass, full-bodied mouthfeel (though very light and delicate on its feet), and incredible length characterize this great Haut-Brion. It is just starting to drink well, and should continue to do so for at least another three decades. It is a tour de force in winemaking, but only 9,000 cases were produced.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2005 Haut-Brion is another wine that has put on weight over the last year. While I still believe the 1989 is the great classic, it is difficult not to admire the architectural structure and seriousness of this extraordinarily elegant effort. A blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon (which came in around 14% natural alcohol), 39% Merlot (over 13% natural alcohol), and 5% Cabernet Franc, only 9,000 cases were produced in this vintage, significantly less than in other great years such as 2000 or 1998. It appears to be a big, bulked-up version of the 1996 or 1995. While almost primordial in its denseness, richness, and body, it retains its elegance and surreal nose of flowers, cherries, pain grille, crushed rocks, flowers, and ripe fruit. Powerful, dense, and in need of a decade of cellaring, this will be a 30 to 40-year Haut-Brion that should end up being a modern day version of the 1955. Although closed at present, it is enormously impressive, and is a treat to taste next to the more flamboyant La Mission Haut-Brion. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040+.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
56% Merlot 39% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple hue. Opaque. A very complex, intense nose of ripe black fruits and minerals. Superb delineation. Like La Mission, it need vigorous aeration to reveal the layers of complexity. Again a little liquorice developing and cedar. Very smooth entry, harmonious on the palate. Exquisite balance yet it is undoubtedly one of the most intense and focused Haut-Brion's in recent years. Pure blackberry and minerals on the finish with an extremely long finish. Was the 1989 like this in its youth (I was at school at the time)? Magnificent. Tasted April 2006.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2005 Haut-Brion is an extraordinarily broad, rich, full-bodied effort boasting huge aromas of scorched earth, plum sauce, sweet cherries, black currants, and a hint of toasty oak. The wine possesses huge tannins, which is somewhat deceptive given its viscosity and opulence. Despite its intensity, Haut-Brion is always a model of elegance and symmetry. The profound 2005, which will undoubtedly shut down after bottling, should be less seductive in its youth than either the 1989 or 1990, but it will be incredibly long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2040+.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Another profound effort from Haut-Brion, the 2005 (a 9,000-case blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc) has bulked up to the point that it is fair to compare it to the great successes of 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1998, and 2000. A dark ruby/purple color is followed by a nuanced, noble bouquet of blue and red fruits interwoven with wet stones, unsmoked cigar tobacco, scorched earth, and spring flowers. The wine is full-bodied, pure, and complex as well as exceptionally elegant with laser-like precision. The tannins are still serious and substantial, and in that sense, this is a completely different style of Haut-Brion than the opulent, silky-textured 1989 and 1990. As I have written before, it comes across as an improved, more concentrated and structured version of the 1995 or 1998. Patience will be required for this stunner. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2040+
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The Château Haut-Brion 2005, which unlike the rest of the First Growth was tasted from magnum, has a more audacious and sensual bouquet compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion with copious black cherries, cooked meat, mint and wild heather scents. You could sit and nose this all day. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. The harmony will leave you breathless. It is underpinned by nigh perfect acidity and astounding weight. Yet it does not overwhelm and remains faithfully classic in style. It is difficult to fault this Haut Brion and do not be surprised if it one day ends up joining the ranks of the 1961, 1989 or 2000.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted single blind at Southwold. This is relatively subdued on the nose. Very closed: black fruits, a touch of black olives, bacon fat and game. Complex but broody and sullen. The palate has a rich, opulent entry with thick chewy tannins, again massive grip in the mouth. A lot of oak at the moment but there is more than enough fruit intensity here to balance it up. Breathtaking purity and definition, a tangible sense of minerality. I think decanting would improve the aromatics, because the palate has it all, and some. I wish I had longer with this, you can see it awakening in the glass. Do not touch this for another ten years. Drink 2018-2050+ Tasted January 2009.
About the Producer
Haut-Brion has long produced the most prestigious Graves Blanc, although it faced strong competition from its neighbour La Mission Haut-Brion, which had been producing its own white wines under the Laville Haut-Brion label until 2009, when it was rebranded as La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc (both estates are under the same ownership). With very small production since the first vintage in 1916, La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc has always been a wine of considerable strength and longevity; its rarity, and the fact that it is the only white wine produced by a first growth in the Graves, makes it highly sought after by collectors. The estate's first growth status does not include white wines and it remains unclassified. Of the 52 hectares planted on the estate, only 2.9 are white: 53% Sémillon and 47% Sauvignon Blanc. (There are also a few rows of Sauvignon Blanc today, but they were not planted in 1989). They are planted on a 27m high hillock opposite the château. The soil is very deep gravel, on a clay subsoil. There is less clay than in Lamena and a different mix of varieties, with much more Sauvignon Blanc in Haut-Brion. The whole estate is located within the city limits of Bordeaux and therefore benefits from a warmer microclimate. Yields range from 25-40 litres/ha. Harvesting is carried out by hand, at maximum ripeness, so that the wines vary from 13% to 14% alcohol. Sorting takes place in the vineyard and the grapes are pneumatically pressed in whole bunches with no skin contact. Fermentation was carried out in oak barrels with native yeasts, but malolactic fermentation was prevented. The wines were decanted every three or four months and aged for 10 to 12 months, with very little stirring of the lees. In the 1980s it was common for wines to be aged entirely in new oak barrels, but today this percentage is around 50%. Production varies from 5,500 to 8,500 bottles. In 2000, the British critic Tom Cannavan enthused: "The nose has a wax and wet wool character, very buttery, with a gorgeous weight of fruit and little floral notes in the peaches, vanilla and nuts. Wonderful fruit ripeness gives a sweet impression, lots of oranges and lush apricots ...... A long, very concentrated and pure finish. Recently, American critic Jeff Leve reported on the 2010 vertical tasting, noting that the 1989 "opens with freshly picked flowers, honey, caramel, grass, lemon and lime aromas. Accompanied by a rich, polished fruit texture, the wine finishes with a blend of citrus flavours".
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