Wine Advisor
Haut Brion Blanc 1993
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Slightly superior to the sensational 1992 Haut-Brion-Blanc, the 1993 exhibits a flattering nose of oily, mineral-scented, ripe, honeyed fruit, full-bodied, super-concentrated flavors, admirable acidity, great vibrancy and delineation, and a rich, long, dry, refreshing finish. It is a rich Haut-Brion-Blanc with more aromatic complexity than the muscular and chewy 1992. These wines are almost ageless. Like its older sibling, the 1993 will age effortlessly for 20-30 years.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
One of my favorite and most educational visits in Bordeaux is the time I spend with Haut-Brion's highly respected administrator, Jean Delmas. Delmas is the thinking man's winemaker, with a level of experience and success that is unequaled in Bordeaux. On this visit, we discussed at length the strong tendency in Bordeaux to produce wines with higher and higher percentages of Merlot. As Jean Delmas says, (1), Merlot provides grapes that can be picked earlier, and tend to ripen with higher degrees of sugar, thus producing wines with higher alcohol. (2) Merlot has less acidity, which, combined with its tendency to produce high alcohol, results in a sweeter, supple, and initially more seductive wine. (3) Winemakers can extract more from Merlot than they can from Cabernet Sauvignon, thus they can vinify Merlot at higher temperatures, ultimately producing exotic, opulent wines that are thrilling to taste young. However, as Delmas pointed out, it is the Cabernet Sauvignon that provides the structure, backbone, and, to his palate, ultimately the greatest measure of complexity, character, and Bordeaux typicity. Jean Delmas enjoys a sumptuous Merlot-based wine as much as any Bordeaux wine lover I know, but he is concerned by the replacement of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards with Merlot. In short, he worries that much of the intrinsic character of many Medoc and Graves chateaux could be muted or lost in a succession of exotic, flashy, glitzy wines that are garish Medoc imitations of Pomerols and St.-Emilions - something to think about. One of the great wines of the vintage, Haut-Brion's 1993 possesses a dark garnet/plum/purple color, an expressive, fragrant, sweet, berry, blackcurrant, mineral, lead pencil, and earthy-scented nose, and medium to full-bodied, concentrated flavors that reveal none of this vintage's hardness or herbaceousness. This layered wine offers sweet tannin, good length, and outstanding purity. Its price is moderate when compared to more recent vintages of Haut-Brion. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and consume it between 2001-2020.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
One of the star's of the vintage, the 1993 Haut-Brion is richer as well as more concentrated, powerful, and tannic than the outstanding 1992. It may even turn out to be better than Haut-Brion's 1990! The 1993 displays an attractive, saturated dark ruby color, and a reticent but emerging bouquet of red and black fruits, minerals, vanillin, and spice. With Haut-Brion's characteristically intense, earthy, tobacco flavors well-displayed in this wine's medium-bodied format, this is once again one of Bordeaux's greatest examples of outstanding concentration and flavor intensity combined with finesse and elegance. There is moderate tannin, but like most Haut-Brions it will be delicious at a young age. It will undoubtedly put on weight and richness as it ages over the next 25 years. Very impressive!
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Quite a surprise in a difficult vintage, a strict selection and the superb terroir of Haut Brion triumphed over a very challenging year that produced many hard, relatively herbaceous wines. The color is a surprisingly saturated deep plum/ruby. Some sweet berry fruit intermixed with menthol, graphite, damp earth, and a hint of mushroom emerges in this medium-bodied, very elegant Haut Brion that is still firmly structured but has sweet tannin and surprising length and ripeness. The wine will always represent a sleeper style. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2015. Last tasted, 11/02.
About the Producer
Haut-Brion has long produced the most prestigious Graves Blanc, although it faced strong competition from its neighbour La Mission Haut-Brion, which had been producing its own white wines under the Laville Haut-Brion label until 2009, when it was rebranded as La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc (both estates are under the same ownership). With very small production since the first vintage in 1916, La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc has always been a wine of considerable strength and longevity; its rarity, and the fact that it is the only white wine produced by a first growth in the Graves, makes it highly sought after by collectors. The estate's first growth status does not include white wines and it remains unclassified. Of the 52 hectares planted on the estate, only 2.9 are white: 53% Sémillon and 47% Sauvignon Blanc. (There are also a few rows of Sauvignon Blanc today, but they were not planted in 1989). They are planted on a 27m high hillock opposite the château. The soil is very deep gravel, on a clay subsoil. There is less clay than in Lamena and a different mix of varieties, with much more Sauvignon Blanc in Haut-Brion. The whole estate is located within the city limits of Bordeaux and therefore benefits from a warmer microclimate. Yields range from 25-40 litres/ha. Harvesting is carried out by hand, at maximum ripeness, so that the wines vary from 13% to 14% alcohol. Sorting takes place in the vineyard and the grapes are pneumatically pressed in whole bunches with no skin contact. Fermentation was carried out in oak barrels with native yeasts, but malolactic fermentation was prevented. The wines were decanted every three or four months and aged for 10 to 12 months, with very little stirring of the lees. In the 1980s it was common for wines to be aged entirely in new oak barrels, but today this percentage is around 50%. Production varies from 5,500 to 8,500 bottles. In 2000, the British critic Tom Cannavan enthused: "The nose has a wax and wet wool character, very buttery, with a gorgeous weight of fruit and little floral notes in the peaches, vanilla and nuts. Wonderful fruit ripeness gives a sweet impression, lots of oranges and lush apricots ...... A long, very concentrated and pure finish. Recently, American critic Jeff Leve reported on the 2010 vertical tasting, noting that the 1989 "opens with freshly picked flowers, honey, caramel, grass, lemon and lime aromas. Accompanied by a rich, polished fruit texture, the wine finishes with a blend of citrus flavours".
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