Wine Advisor
Haut Brion Blanc 2004
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
This has a very intense nose with greater poise than Larrivet. Fresh green fruit, more citrus. Very intense flavours on the palate, lemon, ginger and apple. Good acidity. Very long. An excellent Haut Brion Blanc that will be destined for long-term ageing. Tasted April 2005.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Notes of lemon oil, honeyed grapefruit, and other assorted citrus, along with full-bodied, elegant flavors, fine acidity, and a stony, waxy character emerge from the outstanding 2004 Haut-Brion Blanc.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
No tasting note was given.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
This is an excellent Haut-Brion from a modest vintage. It has a charming, lifted nose of blackberry, cranberry and fresh black olives, all with fine definition and refinement. The palate is medium-bodied, very refined as if the wine is holding everything back until later. There are notes of blackberry, cranberry and a touch of raspberry leaf with a cedar/sous-bois character becoming more evident with aeration. Great persistency, but it is the sheer elegance of this wine that seduces. Impressive. Drink 2012-2025+ Tasted November 2008.
Reviewed by: Lisa Perrotti-Brown
Medium to deep garnet colour. The nose is still a little mute giving a moderate intensity of youthful aromas: ripe plums, cassis, Chinese five spice, moss and a fair amount of cedar. Oak tannins seem to dominate the structure contributing to the taut astringency of the palate yet there is a good amount of ripe berry and earthy fruit plus medium acidity to balance. Long earthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2034. Tasted February 2009.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The nose is quite muted at first. Then aromas of blackberry, black olives and blueberry emerge, though it does not have the attack of La Mission. Like La Mission, the palate is very smooth with ripe black fruits, seamless texture, no rough edges here. Sweet black fruits, very focused, moderate weight. More broody than La Mission. I would just like a bit more weight on the mid-palate, a little more grip on the finish, otherwise this is a lovely Haut-Brion. Tasted April 2005.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
It has been a few years since I last tasted the 2004 Haut-Brion. Now at 12 years of age, it retains its deep color. The bouquet is "pleasant" if not as complex as the 2004 Latour, yet it's possibly just biding its time as it gradually opens with black fruit, black olive, even a touch of mint that might dupe you into thinking Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied and very harmonious, almost caressing thanks to the Merlot lending that velvety texture. The second half changes tack, the Cabernet nudging the Merlot off the stage and delivering a more structured, possibly foursquare finish that is linear and correct. It is an excellent wine for the vintage although it will always be overshadowed by the 2005 inter alia. Maybe more personality just needs to develop? Tasted September 2016.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Although atypically delicate and light for this estate, the 2004 Haut-Brion exhibits the essence of this fabulous terroir situated in the suburbs of Pessac. Gravelly, smoky, cranberry, black cherry, and plum-like scents jump from the glass of this fresh, medium-bodied red along with notions of road tar, earth, and truffles. Stylish, with crisp acidity, it is a beautifully made, pure, long 2004 to enjoy during its first two decades of life.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
An atypically high percentage of Merlot (61%) in addition to 19% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon make up the 2004 Haut-Brion. Fifty-five percent of the production was utilized for the grand vin, a surprisingly forward, charming, silky effort despite the relatively high tannin. In fact, it reminded me of the 1985 even though those vintage conditions have nothing in common with 2004 other than high yields. In any event, the 2004 is a beautiful effort that is far superior to the 2002. Soft, gentle, and gracious, with a deep plum/ruby/purple color, it offers up aromas of smoked herbs, sweet plums and black cherries, and hints of mulberries as well as earth. Medium-bodied, structured, pure, round, and seductive, with a long finish, there is more here than meets the eye and the palate. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the French Embassy in London. The Haut-Brion ’04 may be entering a rather awkward phase. The nose is reticent at first and demands continued coaxing from the glass. Blackberry, cranberry and leather eventually emerge, later joined by bay leaf, leather and a touch of wild heather. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, dominated by cedar and undergrowth characters. It does lack a little depth and there is a touch of piquancy towards the finish. I feel this is entering a dumb phase but will come through the other side with all guns firing. Drink 2015-2030. Tasted November 2010.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The dark plum/ruby-hued 2004 Haut-Brion exhibits a noble, discreet, smoky bouquet revealing notions of plum liqueur, black currants, sweet cherries, and subtle earth. In addition to its aromatic complexity, this medium-bodied effort reveals classic elegance and delicacy as well as sweet fruit in the mouth and a long finish. Give this streamlined, civilized wine 2-4 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 20-25 years. It is amazingly similar to Haut-Brion’s 1999.
About the Producer
Haut-Brion has long produced the most prestigious Graves Blanc, although it faced strong competition from its neighbour La Mission Haut-Brion, which had been producing its own white wines under the Laville Haut-Brion label until 2009, when it was rebranded as La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc (both estates are under the same ownership). With very small production since the first vintage in 1916, La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc has always been a wine of considerable strength and longevity; its rarity, and the fact that it is the only white wine produced by a first growth in the Graves, makes it highly sought after by collectors. The estate's first growth status does not include white wines and it remains unclassified. Of the 52 hectares planted on the estate, only 2.9 are white: 53% Sémillon and 47% Sauvignon Blanc. (There are also a few rows of Sauvignon Blanc today, but they were not planted in 1989). They are planted on a 27m high hillock opposite the château. The soil is very deep gravel, on a clay subsoil. There is less clay than in Lamena and a different mix of varieties, with much more Sauvignon Blanc in Haut-Brion. The whole estate is located within the city limits of Bordeaux and therefore benefits from a warmer microclimate. Yields range from 25-40 litres/ha. Harvesting is carried out by hand, at maximum ripeness, so that the wines vary from 13% to 14% alcohol. Sorting takes place in the vineyard and the grapes are pneumatically pressed in whole bunches with no skin contact. Fermentation was carried out in oak barrels with native yeasts, but malolactic fermentation was prevented. The wines were decanted every three or four months and aged for 10 to 12 months, with very little stirring of the lees. In the 1980s it was common for wines to be aged entirely in new oak barrels, but today this percentage is around 50%. Production varies from 5,500 to 8,500 bottles. In 2000, the British critic Tom Cannavan enthused: "The nose has a wax and wet wool character, very buttery, with a gorgeous weight of fruit and little floral notes in the peaches, vanilla and nuts. Wonderful fruit ripeness gives a sweet impression, lots of oranges and lush apricots ...... A long, very concentrated and pure finish. Recently, American critic Jeff Leve reported on the 2010 vertical tasting, noting that the 1989 "opens with freshly picked flowers, honey, caramel, grass, lemon and lime aromas. Accompanied by a rich, polished fruit texture, the wine finishes with a blend of citrus flavours".
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