Wine Advisor
L'Eglise Clinet 1989
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
For readers who prefer young wine (I'm a sucker for these exuberant, grapy, unevolved wines), this was an exciting comparative flight. The 1989 L'Eglise-Clinet displayed excellent intensity (although it was not as intense and concentrated as this estate's older vintages), a healthy dark ruby/purple color, and a sweet, black-cherry and raspberry-scented nose intertwined with new oak notes. The wine is medium to full-bodied, deceptively smooth and easy to drink (much like La Conseillante), but not nearly as enthralling or compelling as La Conseillante. It is an outstanding wine, but just barely. Drink it over the next 15-20 years. The notes for this wine are taken from the description of Series IV - Flight C of the 1995 tasting conducted in Munich by Helga and Hardy Rodenstock. Many years after the tasting from which this note derives allegations were made concerning the authenticity of old and rare bottles of wine sold by Hardy Rodenstock to collectors around the world. The matter has been the subject of numerous articles, litigation and at least one book. Mr. Parker believes that the wines served to him at this tasting were authentic so this note and the others from that specific tasting continue to be posted on eRobertParker.com.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The L'Eglise-Clinet '89 lies in stark contrast to the Trotanoy 1989 and L'Evangile 1989 that were tasted alongside. Here there is a pungent earthy bouquet, more animally with cigar box and black truffle notes emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied, cohesive with solid, quite firm tannins that lend it a foursquare nature compared to the L'Evangile. It is a quintessential Pomerol wine, still cruising along nicely although not in the same league as Denis Durantou's most recent vintages. Tasted December 2013.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1989 is a rich, velvety, alcoholic wine that is disarmingly seductive and smooth. It has a good tannin level when analyzed, but the high alcohol and low acidity give it a precocious character. Gloriously fruity, this sumptuous, velvety-textured wine will provide immense satisfaction. Anticipated maturity: Now-2000.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
This has a dark mahogany/garnet colour with a tawny rim. The bouquet is quite tight at first but opens nicely with some very subtle dried blood and cooked meat aromas, hints of roasted chestnut and Chinese five-spice. It is a more refined, but perhaps less compelling take on the bouquet of the ’85. But it grows in the glass, developing some lovely cedar and sandalwood aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and perhaps the lack of oak lends this wine clarity. Well balanced, a little irony, good acidity and very fine focus. Gorgeous savoury finish and aftertaste. Perhaps it did not really need the oak after all? Very fine and drinking beautifully now. Tasted May 2009.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted single blind at FINE magazine’s vertical in Dusseldorf. This has a very rustic, bretty nose that surely must be the 1985. Good intensity, faulty in some ways but you cannot resist its bucolic charm. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly aggressive tannins. Touches of cooked meat, pepper and spice, untamed and feral towards the finish. I have had better bottles that this, which seems a little enervated. Tasted February 2011.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
First tasted in September 2004. A very distinctive nose: sweet black fruits mixed with a little tangerine. Very fragrant with black coffee aromas developing with aeration. The palate is atypical for a Pomerol 1989: quite conservative, opposite to the Lafleur 1989 tasted last month. Spicy with good acidity - a wine crying out for food. Finish is truffly and tarry with a reserved finish. Very classy indeed. Drink now. Then at the vertical in June 2005. A stunning nose of liquorice, espresso, black truffle and a touch of fig. Very complex. The palate is wonderfully balanced and focused with a touch of white pepper. Firm, seamless tannins: the oak is so well integrated. Very backward with a little spice on the finish. Such harmony and focus. Awesome.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
While neither the 1989 or 1990 are as spectacular as L'Eglise-Clinet's 1985, 1986, or 1995, they are fine examples of their respective vintages. The 1989 has been variable in recent tastings. The most recent reveals a deep garnet color with an amber edge. The wine exhibited sweet chocolate, jammy black cherry fruit, and lush, precocious, low acid, heady flavors with excellent to outstanding concentration. Some spice and cedar notes emerged with breathing. This fleshy wine appears to be maturing at an accelerated pace. I would opt for drinking it now and over the next 15 years. This particular bottle was more advanced than several other bottles I had in 1996.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1989 is a rich, velvety, alcoholic wine that is disarmingly seductive and smooth. It has a good tannin level when analyzed, but the high alcohol and low acidity give it a precocious character. Gloriously fruity, this sumptuous, velvety-textured wine will provide immense satisfaction. However, given its frightfully low acidity and high pH, I would closely monitor its evolution. Anticipated maturity: Now-2000. Tasted five times. Consistent notes.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Somewhat inconsistent in all of my tastings, this wine has far more evolved color than the 1990, showing considerable amber at the edge. The moderately intense nose of brown sugar, malt chocolate, cedar, mulberries, and cherries is followed by a medium-bodied wine that seems to be fully mature. Its texture is a bit gritty, with some tannins poking their head through, and the wine is not as sweet and opulent as its sibling, the 1990. Nevertheless, this is an excellent bottle. It just seems short of magic, missing the extra layers of flavor and length that merit its lofty reputation. Anticipated maturity: Now-2016. Last tasted, 5/02.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1989 L’Eglise-Clinet is more rustic and not as expressive as the L’Evangile ’89 tasted alongside. There also seems to be more VA on this bottle. The palate is dense and backward with plenty of black fruit. This is animally in character with a touch of brett infusing the plump, aniseed tinged finish. Yes, there is still something almost Rhone-like about the 1989, but it is still a delicious Pomerol, though not at the same level as recent vintages. Drink now-2020. Tasted October 2012.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted twice in recent weeks, the ’89 L’Eglise-Clinet seems to have lost some of its former prowess. It is not a complex bouquet with dark berried fruit, melted tar, espresso and a touch of lavender. Very pretty and it gains definition with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a soft rounded entry, very smooth but with the Cabernet Franc not as expressive as I would have liked. There is just a touch of hardness on the finish and over time it develops a Rhone-like character that reminded me of Reserve des Celestins! A lovely wine, but perhaps it is beginning to fade away. Drink now-2018. Tasted September 2010.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1989 Château L'Eglise-Clinet continues to shine at 27 years of age and this was certainly a better example than several that I have tasted in the last two or three years. It has a very complex nose, this bottle one of the most backward that I have encountered: red berry fruit, black truffle, crushed violets and sage aromas, a hint of warm tar emerging with time. The palate is extremely well balanced, still quite youthful and structured—a Pomerol that you have to learn to love (although trust me, it is worth the effort). This example suggests that it still has many years ahead, such is its substance and length. This was always a brilliant wine from Denis Durantou, a Pomerol that wears its heart on its sleeve. Long may it shine. Tasted January 2016.
About the Producer
Château l'Eglise-Clinet is located in the Pomerol appellation on the right bank of Bordeaux, France, and is one of the most famous wineries in the Pomerol region. Château Clinet Chapel has a long history, dating back to the late 19th century. The Rouchut family, who ran Chateau Clos l'Eglise at the time, and the Constant family, who ran Chateau Clinet, decided to make wine together. Until 1950, the Bordeaux wines produced by these two families were sold under the name Château Claregelis. It was only after 1950 that their wines were given their current name, Château Clignet. Later, the Durantou family acquired Château Clignet. However, the owner was not keen on wine at the time and left everything to Pierre Lasserre, the owner of another Pomerol estate. Pierre Lasserre only had to give him half of the estate's income each year. This partnership has continued for 40 years. Today, Denis Durantou, a descendant of the Durantou family, is in charge of the estate. At present, Château Clignet has 5.5 hectares of vineyards. The soils are mainly gravel and clay, some of which are rich in iron. The vineyards of Château Clignet were spared from the 1956 frosts and the vines are on average 45 years old. The vineyard is planted with 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc at a density of 6,500 vines per hectare. The vineyard is fertilised with an organic fertiliser mix every 5 years. The grapes are hand-picked when they are ripe at Château Clignet. After careful selection and crushing, the grapes are fermented in concrete and stainless steel containers for 15-21 days. After about October, the fermented wine is aged in new oak barrels for a period of 18 months. The main wine of Château Clinet is the Château l'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, France. The wines are concentrated and rich, full-bodied, with pure fruit and exotic spice notes, particularly fresh and wonderful, making them unique among Bordeaux wines. In recent years, as the price of the wine has soared, so has the quality. Today, it is in the top tier of Pomerol.
1961(1)1985(2)
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