Wine Advisor
Le Clos du Caillou, Chateauneuf Du Pape La Reserve 2001
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Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
An off-the-charts effort that was one of my wines of the trip, the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Le Clos du Caillou is a spectacular effort that doesn’t put a foot wrong. Getting a bevy of incredible, spectacular, and a few other adjectives (i.e. expletives) in the notes, this rock-star-of-a-Chateauneuf boasts off-the-hook notes of blackcurrants, saddle leather, beef blood, pepper, spring flowers and licorice. Possessing full-bodied richness on the palate, with beautiful underlying structure and depth, this incredible effort represents the essence of this fabulous terroir, and is a thrilling drink that I wish every Rhone- lover could have the opportunity to taste. This was a massive tasting with the team at Clos du Caillou and we went through each of their cuvees going back more than a decade. While the domaine has been in the Pouizin family since 1956, with Claude Pouizin running the estate through 1996, most of the production was sold off to negociants until around 1993. In 1995, Claude’s daughter, Sylvie, married Jean-Denis Vacheron, and the couple took over running the estate. Unfortunately, Jean-Denis died in a tragic traffic accident in 2002. Today the estate is run by Sylvie, the wines are made by Bruno Gaspard and consulting advice is from Philippe Cambie. Located on the eastern edge of the appellation, in the Courthezon district, they produce up to three Chateauneufs (Les Safres, Les Quartz and the Cuvee Reserve) in any vintage. In addition, they produce a white Chateauneuf du Pape and a number of smoking Cotes du Rones, which come from vineyards bordering Chateauneuf du Pape (identical terroir, actually) and are top- quality. We started the tasting with their base Chateauneuf du Pape, which comes from Safres (sandstone) soils located around the estate. It’s always based on 50+-year-old Grenache vines (95% or higher) and is aged all in older foudre. While this cuvee is called Les Safres today, it was labeled as their traditional Chateauneuf du Pape up until 2005. Moving to the Les Quartz Cuvee, this was first made in 1999 and comes mostly from the Les Cassanets lieu-dit, yet incorporates a small amount of Syrah from Les Bedines. It’s normally a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah, with the Grenache aged in a combination of oak tanks and foudre, and the Syrah in new barrels. While the Reserve gets most of the attention, Grenache-lovers need to check out this cuvee as it always offers thrilling fruit and texture, with an exuberant, Grenache-driven style. The top release from the estate, their Reserve release was first made in 1998. It is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre (this is sometimes a split of Syrah and Mourvedre) that’s aged mostly in 1-2-and 3-year-old, 600-liter demi-muids for 18 months. Where the Les Quartz release is more exuberant and Grenache-dominated (both in style and in the blend), this cuvee, which comes from mostly sandy soils, always has more elegance and polish, as well as rock-star concentration and muscle. In addition, it performs beautifully in more difficult vintages as well. Importers: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysos Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622; and Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Le Clos du Cailloux boasts an inky saturated purple color as well as an awesome perfume of acacia flowers intermixed with creme de cassis liqueur, blackberries, blueberries, smoke, and camphor. This splendidly dense, full-bodied wine has a dry, vintage port-like intensity without the weight of a port. A tour de force achievement, it is a great homage to Jean-Denis Vacheron. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2022. Readers lucky enough to find any should not hesitate to buy as much as they can of the flagship wine, the Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Le Clos du Cailloux. Over the last four years, every vintage has flirted with perfection. Importers: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchant, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
As frighteningly spectacular as the 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Le Clos du Caillou was (I’ve drunk a half dozen or more bottles since my initial report), the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Le Clos du Caillou is one of the most monumental wines of this appellation I have ever tasted. A legendary effort that pays homage to the last vintage the late Jean-Denis Vacheron produced, it boasts an inky/purple color in addition to a terrific perfume of creme de cassis, kirsch, acacia flowers, melted licorice, and graphite. It possesses awesome purity as well as layers of concentration, yet a seamless integration of acidity, tannin, and alcohol. Spectacularly long (the finish lasts over 60 seconds), it cuts a broad swath across the palate, yet is remarkably light on its feet. This amazing effort, a blend of 45% Grenache, 40% Mourvedre, and 15% Syrah, is one of the strongest candidates for wine of the vintage in 2001. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2022. Importers: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchant, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Unfortunately there was a slight taint on the nose. But that did not seem to affect a gorgeous, succinct palate that was very complex and intellectual. Very smooth, refined texture with seamless tannins. The palate is full of black, smoky fruit, damson and plum. Becomes more liquoricey on the finish. Very long. So much potential here. Not a powerful wine, but and sophisticated one. Very classy. Drink from 2010. Tasted September 2004.
Reviewed by: Joe Czerwinski
While this magnum of the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reserve didn't quite live up to its legendary 100-point status, it was no slouch. Hints of crushed flowers on the nose are joined by bright cherries and raspberries. Neither young nor old, it's full-bodied and silky in texture, with crisp acids on the long, lingering finish. Drink now and over the next decade.
About the Producer
Our vineyard is rich of traditional red variety, such as Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Counoise and also some white variety: Viognier, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, without forgetting the Grenache, native god red and white. Grounds are worked in the respect of the nature, by regular ploughing without weedkiller and without chemical produce, using only phytosanitary treatment of sulfur and copper in a lower quantity. Grapes are picked by hand and sorting at the vineyard. Grape varieties are vinified separately to respect their own character, aromas and originality. The red vinification is usually preceded by a cold maceration during few days. Pomp-over, punch-down and delestage are made during all the maceration (1 month to 40 days depending on the vintage and the cuvee). The alcoholic maceration start naturally by the wild yeast present on the grapes. We use stainless tanks for the vinification of the white and rose wine and wooden and cement tank for the vinification of the red. Red wines are then aged in foudres and in oak barrels during one year and more, in the underground cellar, built in the safres, with a natural temperature (13 to 15°C). Foudres and demi-muids composed the maturing cellar. Natural cultural practices at Le Clos du Caillou have been started with Claude Pouizin in 1950 : regular plough, organic compost. Since the early years of the vineyard, we put all our efforts to work in a natural way. Thats is why, Jean-Denis Vacheron started the organic agriculture when he arrived on the vineyard in 1996. We got the certification on 2010 vintage. To continue our philosophy, we engage in 2007 in biodynamic agriculture. It permits to produce qualitative grapes by improving the fertility of the soils. Today, it is of major importance to give back to the soils their total vitality. These practices permitted to give to our vines a new youth thanks to the use of horn-manure and silica preparations, sprayed in the vines while respecting the rythm of the cosmos and the nature cycle.
