Chateau Haut Brion 1996

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted at Bordeaux Index lunch. The Haut Brion 1996 continues to shine as one of the estate's standout releases of the decade. There is something perhaps a little rustic on the nose at first, more "animally" than I have noticed on previous bottles. But it just oozes Graves-like fruit, hints of black olive, scorched earth and undergrowth. This is a nose you can lose yourself in. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, the tannins having just softened a little since two years ago. It is very elegant, extremely well balanced and there is a subtle, insistent crescendo that is utterly entrancing. This is an Haut Brion that is simply full of character. Superb. Drink 2015-2025. Tasted December 2013.

robert_parker92

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

The backward 1996 Haut-Brion was bottled in July, 1998. Even administrator Jean Delmas was surprised by how closed it was when I tasted it in January. Only 60% of the crop was utilized in the final blend, which was 50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% Cabernet Franc. Out of barrel, this wine exhibited far more forthcoming aromatics as well as a sweeter mid-palate than it revealed from bottle. I had expected it to be more forward, and thus slightly down-graded the wine, although I am thrilled to own it and follow what appears to be a slow evolution. It will be a potentially long-lived wine. The 1996 exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, and a surprisingly tight bouquet. With aeration, notes of fresh tobacco, dried herbs, smoke, asphalt, and black fruits emerge ... but reluctantly. It is tannic and medium-bodied, with outstanding purity and a layered, multidimensional style. However, the finish contains abundant tannin, suggesting that this wine needs 5-8 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

While in some vintages La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion can be close in quality, that is not the case in this vintage. The 1996 Haut-Brion, a blend of 50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc is clearly on a higher plane than the La Mission. There is something much more expansive and complete on the nose: greater depth of fruit, more harmonious with scents of underbrush, tar, black olive and this bottle perhaps less "feral" than I have noticed on previous examples. The palate is very well balanced with dark cherries, sous-bois and cedar. This is one vintage where I think the Cabernet Franc plays an important role and lends more complexity. This is a 1996 that has retained and built upon beguiling fleshiness and it will continue to evolve with style and panache. Tasted July 2016.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

First tasted in September 2005. Now this is classy, perhaps a First overshadowed by the likes of Latour or Margaux. The nose is more intense than the 1995 with smoke, cedar, wet moss. Quite enigmatic in a way. The palate is broody, tannic, and lighter than the 1995 but with supreme focus. Had a natural, effortless nature which I love. A beautiful, intellectual Haut-Brion that needs another 8-10 years ageing. I have a feeling this will just get better and better with time. Then blind in September 2006: markedly different from the previous bottle. Rather closed on the nose. Blackberry, cassis, a touch of anis. Black truffle and a touch of underbrush. Very complex. A flamboyant palate with rich black fruits, very toasty and decadent. Not a subtle wine, lacking some refinement, but with a surprisingly mercurial, raucous finish. Just gets better every time I return to the glass.

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

As I indicated last year, Haut-Brion utilized only 60% of its production in the 1996 final blend (50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc). While it is undoubtedly true that the appellations of Pessac-Leognan and Graves were less successful in 1996 than the Medoc, the wines produced under the administration of Jean Delmas (i.e., Haut-Brion, La Mission-Haut-Brion, and La Tour-Haut-Brion) are brilliant in the 1996 vintage, continuing a trend that has made Haut-Brion one of the most consistent first-growths in Bordeaux (consider the superlative performances in such difficult vintages as 1993, 1992, and 1987). The 1996 Haut-Brion has put on weight, and was even sweeter and more fragrant in November than it was earlier in the year. The wine exhibits a dark ruby color with purple nuances. Haut-Brion's signature is most frequently its glorious perfume of tobacco, black fruits, smoke, and dried herbs, combined with sweet, supple fruit, all crammed into a concentrated wine that never has the weight or tannic power of a Medoc, or the thick unctuosity of a top right bank wine. As I have frequently written, the one significant change to my palate over the last twenty years has been the fact that while I have always admired Haut-Brion, now I am addicted to its perfume and complexity. It is never the biggest of the first-growths, but it is usually among the most compelling wines of this elite group, with the most profound set of aromatics of any of its peers. That being said, the 1996 should turn out to be an exquisite wine, perhaps slightly more structured and backward than the superb 1995, but very rich, with gobs of smoky, cherry, tobacco-tinged fruit, medium body, exceptional purity and equilibrium, and a long, moderately tannic finish. The tannins taste extremely sweet. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2030.

robert_parker94

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Haut-Brion, which utilized 60% of its production in 1996, is a blend of 50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% Cabernet Franc. Haut-Brion's talented administrator, Jean Delmas, was more pessimistic about his 1996 than the brilliant 1995 or 1994. Yet after tasting the 1996 several times, I don't think he has anything to worry about. The 1996 is a less flattering, more structured, and more obviously tannic wine than the 1994 or 1995, but it is impressively sweet, rich, and medium to full-bodied. This chateau's glorious perfume is somewhat hidden, but with coaxing, the wine develops beautifully. It exhibits a dense purple color, and a sweet nose of smoke, vanilla, lead pencil, earth, and cassis fruit. Deep, full-bodied, and tannic (ripe and round as opposed to astringent), this will be another terrific Haut-Brion that will require, atypically, 10-12 years of cellaring; it will last for 2-3 decades. Initially, I found it to be reminiscent of the 1986 Haut-Brion, but the wine reveals more sweetness and ripeness of fruit at this stage than the 1986 possessed. If the 1996 fleshes out, it will come close to equaling the splendidly opulent, complex, unctuously-textured 1995. P.S. The 1996 Bahans-Haut-Brion shares a similar, more structured character. It looks to be another excellent second wine from this estate. The color is dark ruby, and the wine is medium-bodied, sweet, rich, and already revealing some of the evolved complexity of the Haut-Brion terroir. It will merit a rating in the upper-eighties when released.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

I have a lot of time for the 1996 Haut-Brion, which was tasted twice in the same month (albeit 5,000 miles apart!) Here it has a gorgeous, quintessential Graves-like bouquet with superb intensity, expressive dark berried fruits, woodland, a touch of garrigues evolving with time (although not anis this time.) The palate is full-bodied with firm, solid tannins that do not obtrude the fruit. Masculine in style with dried herbs, sous-bois, cedar and black olive, then demonstrating outstanding length on the finish. Excellent. Tasted November 2011.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted at the “First Growth” lunch in London. This bottles of ’96 has a very rich, almost ‘lactic’ nose with touch of dark chocolate that I have never noticed before, although there is still that hint of anis that develops with aeration. Complex and mercurial. The palate is full-bodied with assertive black fruits, touches of black olive, blackberry and just a hint of leather. Like before, it is a capricious wine that changes every time I return to the glass. But it does build nicely – this is a wine that will be fascinating in another 7-10 years. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted October 2008.

vinous92

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

Full ruby-red. Initially mute nose opened slowly to reveal complex aromas of raspberry, plum, hot stones, tobacco, saddle leather and toffee. Really explodes on the palate; lush and minerally, with a compelling note of woodsmoke and firm acidity. Wonderful combination of sweetness and vibrancy. Finishes very long and subtle, with firm tannins.

vinous93

Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer

Saturated red-ruby color. Rather reticent aromas of superripe red berries, iodine and damp earth, plus port-like suggestions of medicinal austerity and raisin (but enologist Jean-Philippe Masclef says the vintage did not feature surmaturite Full and large-scaled on the palate; in comparison, the '97 seems a bit vegetal. Less obviously sweet and even more primary than the '96 La Mission.