Wine Advisor
Chateau Haut Brion 1989
View analysis
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1989 is one of the most profound Haut-Brions I have ever tasted. While most producers made considerably more wine in 1989 than in 1988, Administrator Delmas made 30% less. Significantly concentrated, with a huge perfume, this is a monumental wine that may be a modern-day clone of the heroic 1959. Deep ruby/purple, with a roasted tobacco, cassis, smoky aroma, the 1989 has enormous depth, an opulent texture suggestive of the richest 1982s, great length, and a lavish, multi-layered feel. Charged with fruit and tannin, it seems destined to drink sublimely for the next 20-30 years. An awesome wine! Anticipated maturity: 1995-2015. Last tasted, 6/93.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Served blind at Chez Bruce, it was immediately apparent that we were in the presence of true greatness. It is still youthful in colour, the bouquet wafting from the glass and filling the ether with black fruits, hot gravel, black olive, cinders and a touch of black truffle. Spellbinding in its clarity. The palate is full-bodied with ethereal balance and poise. Melted tannins, indeed this Haut-Brion seems to melt in the mouth, although there is still great structure. Hints of black truffle towards the focused finish that perhaps did not have the persistency I expected. This remains a magnificent wine. Tasted July 2010.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the La Mission/Haut-Brion dinner at The Ledbury. One of the best bottles of Chateau Haut-Brion that I have encountered, this is magnificent fermented grape juice. Extraordinarily deep in colour, it has amazing intensity on the nose with similar aromas as the bottle in July with black fruits, black olive, hot gravel and here a very faint tincture of menthol. The palate is medium- rather than full-bodied with exquisite balance and poise with a similar sense of symmetry expressed by the Mission ’78. There is a firm backbone to this wine matched by a fruit intensity that is not so much powerful, but perfectly focused. Blackberry, black plum, tobacco and crushed stone, expanding across the back-palate and lingering for ages after the wine is swallowed. Immense. Drink now-2040+ Tasted September 2010.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Last Tasted 8/92 This wine, the best young Haut-Brion I have ever tasted, appears to have taken on even more richness after bottling. It should turn out to be a modern day clone of the 1959 and 1961. Haut-Brion, which will never have the color, tannin, or power of the Medoc first-growths, is uncommonly rich in 1989. The color is a healthy dark ruby/purple, and the nose offers up super-sweet aromas of minerals, black fruits, grilled nuts, and tobacco. In the mouth, there is a suggestion of the roasted quality often found in Graves wines in a torridly hot year. The overall impression is one of phenomenally sweet, ripe, concentrated fruit, with a great mid-palate and staggering length. This wine is crammed with fruit, glycerin, and tannin, as well as that undeniable Graves personality. This is a splendidly rich, impeccably balanced, opulent Haut Brion that is fascinating to taste now, but should evolve gracefully and effortlessly for another 20-25 years. A masterpiece!
Reviewed by: William Kelley
A spectacular wine that only goes from strength to strength, and which ranks among the pinnacles of my birth year vintage, the 1989 Haut-Brion wafts from the glass with a rich bouquet of blackberries, blackcurrants, cigar wrapper, loamy soil, black truffle, burning embers and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's sumptuous and dramatic, with huge reserves of fruit that are complemented by carnal, savory nuances and framed by melting tannins and ripe acids. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, the only criticism one can make is that a 750-milliliter bottle simply isn't enough.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1989 Haut-Brion is the wine of the vintage! Significantly more concentrated than the great 1986 and 1982, this is a monumental wine that winemaker Jean Delmas says is reminiscent of, but even superior to the heroic 1959. Opaque deep ruby/purple, with a roasted tobacco, cassis, smoky aroma, the 1989 has phenomenal depth, an opulent texture remotely suggestive of the 1982, but with far greater extract levels, length, and a dazzling finish. Charged with copious quantities of lavishly ripe fruit and soft tannins, the 1989 Haut-Brion appears destined to become a legend, as well as to drink sublimely for 20-30 years. I say that because of its superb inner-core of rich, concentrated, gloriously ripe fruit. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2015.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A lovely, minty nose, wonderful definition with immense lift. The palate is full-bodied with firm, grippy tannins, touches of black olives, earth, cooked meats and a touch of dried blood. More forward and open than other bottles with a finish that here reminds me of a Saint Julien! An audacious wine that blesses us with a long future ahead. Drink 2012-2040 Tasted December 2007.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
There are some vintages, for example, 1982 and 1986, in which the first-growths tower qualitatively above the other wines. In 1989, as good as they are, the first-growths are not as profound as one might expect. The one major exception is the phenomenal effort turned in by Haut-Brion. If you are going to buy only one first-growth, this is the wine to purchase. It is not only the richest young Haut-Brion I have ever tasted, but also the greatest. It possesses a multi-dimensional complexity and length that are rarely encountered today. This extraordinary effort may turn out to be a perfect wine with another 5-7 years of aging. For those lucky enough to have any of the legendary Haut-Brions, it comes closest to resembling the 1959 in its power and richness. Tasted three times from bottle and numerous times from cask, it has consistently merited between 98-100. While it is displaying the precocious, opulent fruit of most of the 1989s, I suspect it will close up after 2-3 years in the bottle. It should drink fabulously for 25-30 years.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
This is more mature in appearance that previous Haut Brion 1989’s that I have encountered with a conspicuous brick rim. The nose is lacking a little harmony at first, before developing aromas of black olives, sous bois, a hint of lemongrass and ginger (which may derive from the ripe Cabernet Franc.) But the palate testifies to the aura that surrounds this wine. Full-bodied, very concentrated with layers of spicy black fruits. Notes of dark chocolate, pain grille with an almost Pomerol like, savory quality. A multi-faceted wine with extraordinary length. Tasted December 2006. Drinking 2010-2040
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
First tasted September 2002 when it was perfect. Stunning nose: mulberry, menthol, roasted herbs. Perfect definition. Perfect palate, rich peppery fruits. A heavenly balance with perfect acidity. I really cannot fault this wine. Leaves a sensuous tingle in the mouth - the finish is over a minute. For once: believe the hype. Other-worldly. Tasted again at the FWE vertical in April 2004. An extraordinarily sweet, decadent nose that is much more backward and broody than the 1990. The palate fails to detonate like last time. A dense, tannic core, earthy and restrained. It lacks the power and structure I was expecting. Then in September 2004 at the Farr horizontal: A much more feminine, regal nose compared to the unruly La Mission 1989. Quite rounded, with melted dark chocolate. The palate has wonderful definition: so smooth and elegant. Not as powerful as I expected: this is far more subtle and refined. Cashmere tannins. Very focused and sophisticated. Completely different to La Mission but equal on qualitive terms.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Haut-Brion has been the most consistent first-growth over the last decade, producing top-notch wines, even in such tough years as 1987, 1993, and 1994. The 1989 is one of a handful of truly profound wines from a vintage that tends to be overrated, save for the Pomerols, a few St.-Emilions, and some overachievers in the Medoc. However, 1989 was an extraordinary success for Jean Delmas, the administrator of Haut-Brion and La Mission-Haut-Brion. The prodigious 1989 Haut-Brion is one of the greatest first-growths I have ever tasted. It has always reminded me of what the 1959 must have tasted like in its youth, but it is even richer and more compelling aromatically. The wine exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color, as well as a sweet nose of jammy fruit, tobacco, spicy oak, minerals, and smoke. Fabulously concentrated, with huge levels of fruit, extract, and glycerin, this wine is nearly viscous because of its thickness and richness. Low acidity gives the wine even more appeal and adds to its precociousness. The wine has not budged in development since it was first bottled, although it has always provided thrilling drinking because of its voluptuous texture. It needs another 5-6 years of bottle age before it will begin to develop Haut-Brion's fabulous fragrance. Expect it to hit its plateau of maturity around 2003-2005 and drink well for 15-25 years.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Tasted 10 Times Since Bottling With Consistent Notes The 1989 is the most profound young Haut-Brion I have ever tasted. While most producers made considerably more wine in 1989 than in 1988, Administrator Delmas made 30% less. Significantly concentrated, with a huge perfume, this is a monumental wine that may be a modern-day clone of the heroic 1959. Deep ruby/purple, with a roasted tobacco, cassis, smoky aroma, the 1989 has enormous depth, an opulent texture suggestive of the richest 1982s, great length, and a lavish, multi-layered feel. Charged with fruit and tannin, it seems destined to drink sublimely for the next 20-30 years. An awesome wine! Anticipated maturity: 1995-2015.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
I mean what do you want me to say? We have been here before. Two bottles opened on this occasion, one showing just a little mustiness on the nose but the other representative. There is nothing new to add, suffice to say that it was one of the vinous peaks of the 20th century and everyone should try and taste it just once in their life. Tasted November 2011.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
This continues to be one of the immortal wines and one of the greatest young Bordeaux wines of the last half-century. Consistently prodigious and almost a sure bet to top the scoring card of any blind tasting of this vintage as well as other years, the 1989 Haut-Brion is a seamless, majestic classic, and a tribute to this phenomenal terroir and its singular characteristics. The wine still has a very thick, viscous-looking ruby/purple color, a spectacular, young but awesome smorgasbord of aromas ranging from scorched earth, liquid minerals, graphite, blackberry and black currant jam to toast, licorice, and spice box. The levels of fruit, extract, and glycerin in this viscous, full-bodied, low-acid wine are awe-inspiring. The brilliant symmetry of the wine, extraordinary purity, and seamlessness are the hallmarks of a modern-day legend. It is still in its pre-adolescent stage of development, and I would not expect it to hit its full plateau of maturity for another 3-5 years, but this should be an Haut-Brion that rivals the greatest ever made at this estate. Life is too short not to drink this wine as many times as possible! A modern day clone of the 1959? Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. Last tasted, 1/03.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
A modern-day version of the epic 1959, the 1989 Haut-Brion is all about harmony. Fine, silky tannins and expressive aromatics are two of the signatures. Tobacco, cedar and anise add layers of nuance to the dark, mineral-inflected fruit. The 1989 has long been one of my favorite Haut-Brions. It is once again magnificent in this tasting. The linkage with 1959 is quite evident. Readers who are fortunate enough to own the 1989 will be thrilled to follow its evolution over the next few decades.
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
I’ve been following this wine since I first tasted it from barrel in the summer of 1990, and it has always been an amazing wine and one of the best examples of this remarkable vintage. This particular bottle, which I helped to drink alongside a superb, dry-aged prime porterhouse at one of the New York City area’s best steakhouses, Rothmann’s on Long Island, might have been the best I’ve ever had. The textbook iron, tobacco and cigar box Haut-Brion character was there in abundance, but this time there was also an almost Burgundian laciness and buoyancy to the wine that I’ve not experienced before. Even at almost 30 years old, it still has a long life ahead of it, but based on this bottle I wouldn’t begrudge anyone opting to drink it right now.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1989 Haut-Brion remains one of the outstanding achievements of the decade, and it consistently flirts with perfection. I was fortunate to taste the wine three times over the space of six months, though this tasting note comes from a bottle poured at the château by Jean-Philippe Delmas – the first time I had ever tasted an ex-château bottle. It is a fabulous wine. Showing little maturity in terms of bricking, it has a fabulous bouquet of graphite, clove and tobacco aromas that burst from the glass, perhaps with a little more amplitude than others I have tasted. The palate is perfectly balanced, displaying amazing depth and perfect acidity, and (unsurprisingly, given its provenance) youthful and seemingly with many chapters to go. More floral elements emerge with time: violets on the nose and then later, a taste of eau-de-vie toward the finish. An astonishing wine that will give many more years of pleasure. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the estate.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1989 Haut-Brion commenced one of the most spectacular dinners that I ever attended, this representing one of the best bottles of a dozen tasted over the years. Deep in color with thin bricking on the rim, the haunting bouquet has heart-rending delineation – as profound as it has ever been. Scents of black olives intermingle with graphite, clove and cherry liqueur, underneath subtle gravel scents becoming more vocal with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and maybe not as powerful as it was a few years ago. Yet it is ineffably complex with layers of pure dark berry fruit, black olive, cloves and crushed violets. This particular example was one of the most youthful that I have encountered. The finish is so effortless and yet it changes constantly in the glass, revealing new facets, some attendees noticing a touch of greenness after 30 minutes although I could not detect that myself. It is an awe-inspiring Haut-Brion that is only just beginning to demonstrate the ethereal heights it can achieve. Tasted at the International Business & Wine First Growth Dinner at the Four Seasons.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Medium red. Highly nuanced, roasted aroma dominated by tobacco, grilled nuts, smoke and vanillin oak. Densely packed, but also juicy and penetrating, with great thrust and superb vinosity. A very powerful wine with a robust tannic structure. Finishes very long and strong. This and La Mission really transcend the vintage. Drink 2005 through 2030.
1952(1)1955(1)1956(1)1957(1)1958(2)1960(1)1961(1)1963(1)1964(2)1965(1)1966(1)1967(1)1970(1)1971(2)1974(1)1975(1)1976(1)1977(1)1981(1)1982(6)1983(2)1984(1)1985(2)1986(2)1988(5)
Package Size
