Wine Advisor
Vieux Chateau Certan 1998
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
An "atypical wine," according to proprietor Thienpont, no Cabernet Franc was utilized in the 1998, a wine with 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvested at the optimum time in Pomerol - September 21 - 26, the vineyard produced a measly 34 hectoliters per hectare. In short, the 1998 is the most profound Vieux-Chateau-Certan produced since this estate's great historic period when it made profound wines in 1945, 1947, 1948, 1949, and 1950. It is a massive, black/purple-colored wine with a viscous texture, formidable richness, and high tannin. This powerhouse/blockbuster will require a minimum of 8-10 years of cellaring. It is a mammoth, super-concentrated, compelling effort that will need to be purchased as a future. Bravo! P.S. It seems to me Vieux-Chateau-Certan should produce more "atypical" wines. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
A prodigious effort, this dense ruby/purple-colored 1998 reveals an explosive bouquet of licorice, cedar, spice box, and jammy blackberry, currant, and cherry fruit. Profoundly concentrated, with great flavor, purity, as well as extraordinary complexity and palate presence, this wine boasts multiple layers of flavor, silky tannin, a thick, viscous texture, and a 45-second finish. The glycerin and huge extract conceal what appear to be high levels of tannin. Unusually for Vieux-Chateau-Certan, this wine contains no Cabernet Franc, being a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested at a low 34 hectoliters per hectare. It is a superstar of the vintage! Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A far more precocious, rounded nose than the 2000. Sumptuous, lush earthy red fruits with a touch of iron filings. Good definition though. The palate is very smooth, a little more exotic than the 2000 with a hint of clementines mixed in with the rich, sweet red berried fruit. Touch of black truffle on the finish. Just lacks the poise and sophistication of the 2000 and I expected more lift on the finish. Still, an excellent 1998. I think this will drink before the 2000. Tasted May 2005.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Bipin Desai’s VCC vertical in Los Angeles. This is obviously one of Alexandre Thienpont’s favourite vintages under his tenure (so far) – no wonder he was disappointed when I told him the bottle was tainted. Sipped from another glass, this is patently developing a precocious bouquet brimming with cassis, blueberry and violet scents, spilling over the top of the glass. The palate is concentrated, silky smooth, viscous, almost opulent in style with a slightly lower level of acidity than I expected. A ravishing, Reubenesque finish, this is a decadent VCC that is turning out to be a generous wine. Drink 2012-2035+. Tasted November 2008.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted from bottle at Mark Walford’s annual lunch at Waterside Inn. The ‘98 VCC has an expressive bouquet, perhaps more modern in style compared to the more traditional ‘99. There is an exotic touch with cassis and blueberry scents wafting temptingly from the glass, menthol and orange blossom. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of sappy red fruit and a sumptuous, quite glossy finish. I am not as taken as this Pomerol as I was three of four years ago, but it is still a flash VCC that has an opulent air about it. Tasted May 2013.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
A fine offering, the 1998 has closed down, but there is no doubting its fabulous potential. The color is a dense purple. The wine reveals high tannin, huge body, and classy black fruits intermixed with minerals, spice box, cedar, and tobacco. A long, persistent, tannic finish gives this majestic effort a closed but formidable personality. Patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1998 Vieux Château Certan has an open, generous and expressive bouquet that I have always found quite exotic in style, thanks to its precocious cassis and blueberry scents, although maturity is turning down the volume. As before, there are subtle notes of menthol developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, relatively voluptuous in style vis-à-vis other vintages. As the 1998 has aged, I feel it has never kicked on in terms of complexity as I initially hoped. Yet, this remains a thoroughly enjoyable VCC. Tasted over lunch in London.
About the Producer
Among all the Pomerol appellations, Vieux Chateau Certan is one of the oldest, and even Petrus is a latecomer to it. It was called "Sertan" by the Portuguese, meaning desert, poor land and unsuitable for growing crops, but the soil was very suitable for growing grapes. Over time, the name "Sertan" evolved into the homonym "Certan", which is part of the winery's name to this day. The vineyard of Château de la Vieux Sedan covers approximately 14 hectares and is divided into 23 plots. The upper layer of the vineyard is about 30 cm of clayey gravel, while the iron-bearing clay is in the lower layer of the soil. The grape varieties planted are predominantly Merlot (about 70%), with Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) making up the rest of the vineyard. The average age of the vines is about 50 years. The harvest is rigorous, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled oak barrels and aging in 2/3 new oak barrels, while some vintages, such as 1987, are 100% new oak and aged for 18-22 months. The wines of Old Sedan are made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a stylistic departure from the absolute dominance of Merlot in Pomerol. Old Sedan is the most similar to the Medoc style in Pomerol, with a color that is usually less intense, but with firm tannins and a robust body. After a few years of ageing, it is sweet, mineral and perfectly smooth, with a strong persistence in the mouth. The old Sedan has a unique and flawless structure, the new wine has a rather prominent charred leathery taste and the tannins take at least 5 years to soften. The mature wine has concentrated flavors and a perfect balance, not as "powerful" as Château Petrus, but a perfect combination of strength and softness, a unique Pomerol wine.
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Package Size
12 x 75cl3 x 75cl
