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Vieux Chateau Certan 1989
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at lunch at La Trompette, the Vieux-Chateau Certan ’89 continues to offer so much pleasure. The bouquet is similar to the bottle poured at Bipin’s vertical in November, unfolding with saddle-leather, mulberry, fig, those chestnuts still roasting over the fire. How can you not adore this? The palate once again, deserves time to unfold, lovely poise and fine tannins, this bottle showing great depth on the back palate, a little spicier and garrigues-like that I remember. Quite rich and generous with that leitmotiv of chestnuts on the finish. A point. Drink now-2022. Tasted July 2010.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
For readers who prefer young wine (I'm a sucker for these exuberant, grapy, unevolved wines), this was an exciting comparative flight. The 1989 Vieux-Chateau-Certan was a lightweight in this flight of wines, offering medium to dark ruby color, some vegetal notes and a ripe bing cherry component. Medium-bodied, soft, and slightly disjointed, this is an excellent, easy-going wine that is maturing quickly (and this was a double magnum). It should last for 10-15 years. The notes for this wine are taken from the description of Series IV - Flight C of the 1995 tasting conducted in Munich by Helga and Hardy Rodenstock. Many years after the tasting from which this note derives allegations were made concerning the authenticity of old and rare bottles of wine sold by Hardy Rodenstock to collectors around the world. The matter has been the subject of numerous articles, litigation and at least one book. Mr. Parker believes that the wines served to him at this tasting were authentic so this note and the others from that specific tasting continue to be posted on eRobertParker.com.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1989 Vieux-Chateau-Certan is a very good wine, with dark ruby/purple color, a big, spicy, herb and cassis-scented bouquet, medium body, and a long, relatively opulent finish. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2005.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A stunning 1989. The nose is very lush, dense and minerally and simply soars from the glass. The palate is harmonious, velvety smooth and decadent. The palate is very opulent with notes of chestnuts and blackberry. Not terribly tannic, this wine does not have the structure to last as long as expected but at the moment this is a pure joy. Tasted June 2003.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
This vintage of Vieux-Chateau-Certan is highly revered in many circles, but I felt the wine was too lacking in concentration to be considered profound. It also did not appear to have the depth, grip, or focus of the 1988. Nevertheless, it is still a very good wine, with dark ruby/purple color, a big, spicy, herb and cassis-scented bouquet, medium body, and a long, relatively opulent finish. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2005. Tasted five times. Consistent notes.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The last two tastings have been better than early tastings, suggesting I underrated the wine. It is still somewhat austere, with a rather evolved dark garnet color already revealing some amber. The wine shows some sweet plums, currants, with some dusty earth overtones and a hint of dried herbs. The wine is medium-bodied, sweet on the front end, but a bit astringent at the rear. The wine could probably benefit from several more years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2016. Last tasted, 1/02.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The austere, light-bodied 1989 reveals an amber/orange edge to its color. Although the wine did not taste cooked, this bottle may have been exposed to inhospitable temperatures sometime during its sojourn from Bordeaux to America. In any event, I look forward to tasting another bottle, hoping this tasting was not an accurate representation of the 1989's quality. Last tasted 11/96
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the 28-50 Pomerol off-line dinner. An almost identical note to previous bottles. The VCC ’89 retains that irresistible bouquet of mulberry, clove and roasted chestnuts that swarms from the glass, the palate rounded and supple, great depth, perhaps a little rustic but exhibited a compelling, garrigues-tinged finish that leaves you with one foot in Pomerol, the other in Provence! Divine. Drink now-2030. Tasted November 2010.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted from bottle at Mark Walford’s annual lunch at Waterside Inn. This bottle is consistent with several other tasted over the last couple of years. It has a captivating bouquet with scents of mulberry, clove and cedar, a hint of roasted chestnut in the background. It gains intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, perhaps a little tighter than I have discerned compared to other bottles, but it retains that gorgeous garrigues-infused finish. Wonderful. Tasted May 2013.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Bipin Desai’s VCC vertical in Los Angeles. This has always been a lovely ‘89 Pomerol and here it shines. A limpid ruby/garnet hue. The nose has an elegant, “lilting” quality, very complex and well defined with saddle-leather, raisin, fresh fig, a touch of roasted chestnuts. The clarity of the bouquet is just thrilling. The palate is medium-bodied, exuding elegance and refinement with finer tannins and poise than the ensuing vintage. Great breeding, well judged acidity, for a time flirting with the idea of developing a “cakey”, almost coconut quality that recedes on second thought. Lovely, lovely finish. It does not have the depth or length of the ‘90, but it more than compensates in class. Drink now-2020. Tasted November 2008.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1989 Vieux Château Certan has long been one of my favorite wines of that decade. The bouquet shows no signs of relinquishing that title with gorgeous black truffle, bay leaf, warm gravel and briary scents that are simply beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, "warm earth" on the entry, leather and truffle, great depth here with sublime precision on the finish, which is bridled with hints of mushroom and cloves. Maybe this is reaching its peak? Then again, it shows absolutely no signs of reaching the end of its plateau. This is nothing short of a wondrous Pomerol from Alexandre Thienpont. Tasted January 2016.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1989 Vieux Château Certan has long been one of my favourite vintages of this era, although this is not the best example. The nose has more intensity than the 1990 with plenty of red fruit, melted tar, Earl Grey and light rose petal scents wafting from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, plenty of substance, though this bottle feels more mature compared to the previous one tasted, with fungal notes towards the finish. Not bad, but on this occasion, it is outclassed by the 1990. Tasted at the Vieux Château Certan dinner at La Trompette.
About the Producer
Among all the Pomerol appellations, Vieux Chateau Certan is one of the oldest, and even Petrus is a latecomer to it. It was called "Sertan" by the Portuguese, meaning desert, poor land and unsuitable for growing crops, but the soil was very suitable for growing grapes. Over time, the name "Sertan" evolved into the homonym "Certan", which is part of the winery's name to this day. The vineyard of Château de la Vieux Sedan covers approximately 14 hectares and is divided into 23 plots. The upper layer of the vineyard is about 30 cm of clayey gravel, while the iron-bearing clay is in the lower layer of the soil. The grape varieties planted are predominantly Merlot (about 70%), with Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) making up the rest of the vineyard. The average age of the vines is about 50 years. The harvest is rigorous, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled oak barrels and aging in 2/3 new oak barrels, while some vintages, such as 1987, are 100% new oak and aged for 18-22 months. The wines of Old Sedan are made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a stylistic departure from the absolute dominance of Merlot in Pomerol. Old Sedan is the most similar to the Medoc style in Pomerol, with a color that is usually less intense, but with firm tannins and a robust body. After a few years of ageing, it is sweet, mineral and perfectly smooth, with a strong persistence in the mouth. The old Sedan has a unique and flawless structure, the new wine has a rather prominent charred leathery taste and the tannins take at least 5 years to soften. The mature wine has concentrated flavors and a perfect balance, not as "powerful" as Château Petrus, but a perfect combination of strength and softness, a unique Pomerol wine.
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