Wine Advisor
Vieux Chateau Certan 1988
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1988 is a classic Vieux-Chateau-Certan. The huge bouquet of cassis, herbs, and new oak is followed by a wine that is medium-bodied, with deep, black-cherry flavors wrapped intelligently in toasty oak. Extracted, deep, yet impeccably balanced, this well-delineated Pomerol should age well for 20-25 years. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2010.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A surprising mature colour. A rustic, chunky nose, quite earthy with open-knit secondary aromas. A touch of leather developing in the glass. A very soft entry on the palate. A little disjointed and the Cabernet Franc lacks some ripeness. If I had this blind I might guess a Left Bank wine - quite masculine with a slight bitterness on the finish. Not unattractive, but no great shakes either. Drink over the next 2-3 years. Tasted May 2005.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Very deep garnet colour. The nose is fairly intense, sweet macerated cherry, iodine and a touch of prune. The palate is medium-bodied, lacking definition, a little sweet and ersatz. Tannic, but there is something superficial about it. Tasted December 2006.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
One of my favorite wine from this chateau, as well as from a vintage that remains somewhat underrated. Sweet black fruits intermixed with earth, charcoal, licorice and compost jump from the glass of this medium-bodied, deep, beautifully extracted Pomerol that has a real Medoc structure to it. The wine is sweet, relatively evolved, and just beginning to enter its plateau of full maturity. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 1/02.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1988 Vieux Chateau Certan is a vintage that I have not tasted often, something I rue even more having been reacquainted with it. To be honest, for the first five minutes it felt overawed by the 1989. However, it soon gets its act together to deliver and gorgeous nose of black fruit, melted tar and cigar box, unashamedly classic in style, less sensual than the succeeding two vintages and yet extremely well defined. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, perfectly judged acidity, tobacco and cedar dominating the second half and yet there remains more than enough freshness and length to urge you back for another sip. Superb. Tasted at the VCC dinner with François Thienpont, hosted by Wine Source in London.
About the Producer
Among all the Pomerol appellations, Vieux Chateau Certan is one of the oldest, and even Petrus is a latecomer to it. It was called "Sertan" by the Portuguese, meaning desert, poor land and unsuitable for growing crops, but the soil was very suitable for growing grapes. Over time, the name "Sertan" evolved into the homonym "Certan", which is part of the winery's name to this day. The vineyard of Château de la Vieux Sedan covers approximately 14 hectares and is divided into 23 plots. The upper layer of the vineyard is about 30 cm of clayey gravel, while the iron-bearing clay is in the lower layer of the soil. The grape varieties planted are predominantly Merlot (about 70%), with Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) making up the rest of the vineyard. The average age of the vines is about 50 years. The harvest is rigorous, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled oak barrels and aging in 2/3 new oak barrels, while some vintages, such as 1987, are 100% new oak and aged for 18-22 months. The wines of Old Sedan are made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a stylistic departure from the absolute dominance of Merlot in Pomerol. Old Sedan is the most similar to the Medoc style in Pomerol, with a color that is usually less intense, but with firm tannins and a robust body. After a few years of ageing, it is sweet, mineral and perfectly smooth, with a strong persistence in the mouth. The old Sedan has a unique and flawless structure, the new wine has a rather prominent charred leathery taste and the tannins take at least 5 years to soften. The mature wine has concentrated flavors and a perfect balance, not as "powerful" as Château Petrus, but a perfect combination of strength and softness, a unique Pomerol wine.
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