Wine Advisor
Vieux Chateau Certan 1982
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
I have rated this wine higher, but recently it is revealing considerable amber and rust at the edge, and evolving rapidly. It exhibits a sweet, cedary, jammy nose with a meaty, soy sauce component. Fleshy and full-bodied, with low acidity, copious amounts of ripe, rich fruit, and high alcohol in the satiny smooth finish, this fully mature, chewy wine is capable of lasting 10-15 more years. In looking at my tasting notes, I have shown a wider deviation in scores, from a low of 87 to a high of 94, with this wine than with any other 1982 Pomerol. Last tasted, 7/93.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
An herbaceous, cedary, spice, and fruitcake-scented bouquet jumps from the glass of this medium ruby/garnet-colored wine. More complex aromatically than on the palate, this supple, velvety-textured effort exhibits abundant glycerin, an open-knit, expansive mouth-feel, but not the depth, power, or density of the vintage's finest efforts. Fully mature, it requires consumption over the next 5-7 years.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Not yet fully mature, this wine reveals some amber at the edge as well as a complex, intoxicating nose of cedar, licorice, spice box, black currants, and cherries. While medium to full-bodied with sweet tannins, and beautiful concentration, it appears to me that more recent vintages are stronger and denser than the 1982. Nevertheless, it is a beauty that can be drunk now and over the next 15-16 years. Release price: ($175.00/case)
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
First tasted in February 2003. A brickish/ruby core. The nose is surprisingly herbal, spicy and raisiny and is less opulent than Petit-Village or La Conseillante. The nose is still vibrant but does not really "sing". Balanced but quite firm and lacking the ripe fleshy fruit or complexity I was expecting. This wines appears to be too dominated by the Cabernet Sauvignon. Good but not great. Then at the VCC vertical in June 2005. The nose really does not go anywhere, almost a vegetal note creeping in with scents of wild strawberry and cherry. A soft palate, fully mature tannins, good mid-palate though coarse without any lift on the finish. A linear 1982. Drink soon.
Reviewed by: William Kelley
The 1982 Vieux Château Certan didn't make waves in its youth, yet it is going from strength to strength today. Produced by Léon Thienpont, four years before his son Alexandre took the helm, it offers up rich aromas of mulberries, black truffle, forest floor, spices and cedar. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit, melting tannins and an expansive, sapid finish, this is a comparatively underrated 1982 Bordeaux today.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted blind at The Arches. Poured from magnum, this is the finest VCC ’82 that I have encountered. It has an entrancing bouquet of blackcurrant wine gums, mint, Vervain tea and cedar. The palate is full-bodied with fully ripe tannins lending this a superb backbone. The Cabernet component lends it a Left Bank personality. It is harmonious with lively black fruit on the grippy finish, with a saline aftertaste that lingers long in the mouth. I think the large format really benefits this Pomerol, lending it more life and fruit intensity. Tasted February 2012.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Pebbles/Zachy’s 1982 dinner in Hong Kong. This is the best bottle of VCC 1982 that I have encountered. The reason is that you can feel that three grape varieties all working together to create a multi-faceted Pomerol that is really coming into its own. It has a wondrous bouquet that is very savoury with meaty notes, Asian spice and a touch of bitter chocolate, all with outstanding definition. The palate follows suit with supremely expressive Cabernet Franc that lends the 1982 so much character, a part of its personality that was less pronounced a few years ago. There are lovely saddle-leather, animally notes infusing the dark berry fruit with a hint of sage and heather on the grainy finish. Maybe this VCC is improving as it enters its fourth decade? Tasted November 2012.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Notorious bottle variation has characterized all my tastings of the 1982 Vieux-Chateau-Certan. Magnums have been outstanding, meriting 90-92 points. Regular 750 ml. formats are soft and herbaceous, wonderfully delicious and round, but not that complex or concentrated. While the wine is very good, it is not one of the stars of the vintage. The color is a healthy dark ruby with some amber. The wine possesses a peppery, herb, olive, and vanillin-scented nose, and jammy black cherry fruit. Lush and succulent, with medium to full body, excellent concentration, and a low acid finish with no real tannin, this is a fully mature wine that begs to be drunk over the next 7-8 years. I prefer the 1986, 1988, and 1990 to the 1982 Vieux-Chateau-Certan. Last tasted 9/95
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Bipin Desai’s VCC vertical in Los Angeles. I have never had a good experience with the VCC ‘82 and I voiced my opinion to Alexandre Thienpont. The ‘82 looks similar to the ‘85, but the nose is rather flaccid, lacks a little vigour with scents of hot bricks, cigar box and a touch of espresso. But overall, the bouquet lacks some lift. The palate is medium-bodied, quite pointed acidity against a fleshy backdrop, my main quibble being that it lacks overall harmony, with some drying tannins on the finish. To the wine’s credit, it does coalesce in the glass and gather some vigour and I end up raising my score by a couple of points. Although the ‘85 VCC is simpler, that wine elicited more joie-de-vivre. Drink now-2012. Tasted November 2008.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 1982 Vieux Château Certan has an endearing nose with plenty of red fruit, raspberry and crushed strawberry, laced with black truffle and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balance, quite structured with insistent grip. Fully mature, this 1982 has a delicate spicy finish, though comparing this with previous notes, it suggests that this is beginning a graceful decline. Drink over the next decade or try to seek out a large format. Tasted at the Vieux Château Certan dinner at La Trompette.
About the Producer
Among all the Pomerol appellations, Vieux Chateau Certan is one of the oldest, and even Petrus is a latecomer to it. It was called "Sertan" by the Portuguese, meaning desert, poor land and unsuitable for growing crops, but the soil was very suitable for growing grapes. Over time, the name "Sertan" evolved into the homonym "Certan", which is part of the winery's name to this day. The vineyard of Château de la Vieux Sedan covers approximately 14 hectares and is divided into 23 plots. The upper layer of the vineyard is about 30 cm of clayey gravel, while the iron-bearing clay is in the lower layer of the soil. The grape varieties planted are predominantly Merlot (about 70%), with Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) making up the rest of the vineyard. The average age of the vines is about 50 years. The harvest is rigorous, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled oak barrels and aging in 2/3 new oak barrels, while some vintages, such as 1987, are 100% new oak and aged for 18-22 months. The wines of Old Sedan are made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a stylistic departure from the absolute dominance of Merlot in Pomerol. Old Sedan is the most similar to the Medoc style in Pomerol, with a color that is usually less intense, but with firm tannins and a robust body. After a few years of ageing, it is sweet, mineral and perfectly smooth, with a strong persistence in the mouth. The old Sedan has a unique and flawless structure, the new wine has a rather prominent charred leathery taste and the tannins take at least 5 years to soften. The mature wine has concentrated flavors and a perfect balance, not as "powerful" as Château Petrus, but a perfect combination of strength and softness, a unique Pomerol wine.
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