Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Sarmassa 2006
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Voerzio’s 2006 Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo (magnum) literally explodes on the palate with red fruit, flowers, spices and mint. Still tightly wound, the 2006 is an especially powerful Sarmassa that isn’t quite as accessible as it often is at this stage. Still, the wine’s bouquet, purity of fruit and persistence all augur for a long life of magnificent drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Voerzio’s 2006 Barolo Sarmassa (magnum) literally explodes on the palate with red fruit, flowers, spices and mint. Still tightly wound, the 2006 is an especially powerful Sarmassa that isn’t quite as accessible as it often is at this stage. Still, the wine’s bouquet, purity of fruit and persistence all augur for a long life of magnificent drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. My most recent visit with Roberto Voerzio and his son Davide in November 2009 was one of the most emotionally transcendental experiences I have ever had. When all was said and done, we tasted nearly forty wines spanning vintages 1988-2008, essentially covering this inspired producer’s entire career. That tasting will be the subject of an upcoming article on www.erobertparker.com, but readers can get a sneak peak at some of the 1989s and 1990s that are covered in this issue’s “What About Now.” I saw Roberto Voerzio in September 2006 and toured his vineyards just as the Nebbiolo harvest was about to begin. The fruit was absolutely gorgeous, and fortunately Voerzio was spared any significant damage from hail. Still, Voerzio was not entirely happy with his Barolo La Serra and Merlot, and opted not to bottle those wines. Always one of the first to harvest, Voerzio brought in his Nebbiolo in the first week of September. Vinification is fairly straightforward and takes place in stainless steel. Roberto Voerzio is one of the few producers of his generation who prefers steel for the malolactic fermentations as well. The wines were aged in French oak barrels. Beginning with his 2008s, Voerzio is aging his Barolos in a combination of roughly equal parts large cask and French oak, an approach he used for his early vintages through 1993. The first wines I have tasted from cask have been simply brilliant. It will be fascinating to see where Voerzio takes his craft from here. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Voerzio's 2006 Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo (magnum) literally explodes on the palate with red fruit, flowers, spices and mint. Still tightly wound, the 2006 is an especially powerful Sarmassa di Barolo that isn't quite as accessible as it often is at this stage. Still, the wine's bouquet, purity of fruit and persistence all augur for a long life of magnificent drinking.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
