Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Sarmassa 2008
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2008 Barolo Sarmassa (magnum) is beautifully expressive, even at this early stage. It is also one of only two 2008s here (the other is Capalot) that was aged entirely in French oak barrique. Freshly cut flowers, dark red berries and mint are some of the many nuances that flesh out in this complex, multi-dimensional wine. This is a stunning effort. Wow. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. These wines from Roberto and Davide Voerzio represent a significant turning point stylistically. This is the first year in which most of the Baroli were aged partly in cask and partly in barrel, the same approach the estate used for its early wines, up to and including the 1993 vintage. The 2008s spent their first year in equal parts cask and barrique, and a second year in French oak barrels, just 20% new, a major change over the recent past. The exceptions are the Baroli Voerzio bottled only in magnums (Sarmassa and Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate), which were aged exclusively in French oak because of the tiny quantities of those wines. Roberto Voerzio describes 2008 as a year that was cold from start to finish. The wines are huge, tannic and likely to require quite a bit of patience. With time, though, the pedigree of the great Barolo vineyards simply can’t be denied. The best of Voerzio’s 2008s are pure magic. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
Reviewed by: James Suckling
Crazy nose with blueberries and blackberries and warm stones. Full-bodied, with a wonderfully integrated fruit and tannin structure. Silky and caressing. Almost seamless mouthfeel. Better in 2015.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2008 Barolo Sarmassa (magnum) is beautifully expressive, even at this early stage. It is also one of only two 2008s here (the other is Capalot) that was aged entirely in French oak barrique. Freshly cut flowers, dark red berries and mint are some of the many nuances that flesh out in this complex, multi-dimensional wine. This is a stunning effort. Wow. (Magnum)
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
