Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Sarmassa 2004
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
As hard as it is to believe, the 2004 Barolo Sarmassa is even better than the Cerequio. It opens with compelling, seductive aromatics that lead to an array of perfumed plums, prunes and sweet red cherries in liqueur. Blessed with superb detail and delineation, this profound Barolo offers exceptional clarity, precision and endless layers of flavor, all framed by silky, perfectly ripe tannins that provide balance. This wine has always been stunning from barrel and cask, and it is equally breathtaking in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.