Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Sarmassa 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2009 Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo (tasted in a magnum) shows delicate embroidery of shaved mineral, dried cherry fruit, ash, tar, licorice, ginger and light teriyaki. End notes of toasted hazelnut are reminiscent of the perfumes that waft over Alba’s Ferrero chocolate factory. Silky firmness and structure mean this wine will have no problem facing the years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. The wines of Roberto and Davide Voerzio offer a fitting conclusion to this tasting of Piedmont’s best red wines. These are stunning wines that capture, head on, the beauty of the 2009 vintage. They remind us of the dazzling heights achieved by the Nebbiolo grape. Importer: Winebow, Pinebrook, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Barolo Sarmassa is all about pure sensuality. Freshly cut roses, sweet cherries, raspberries, mint and subtle spices are woven together in a finely knit fabric of the utmost elegance. Like the Cerequio, a wine it shares so many qualities with, the Sarmassa is quite rich and voluptuous in this vintage, but all the elements are very much in the right place. Elegance and power are rarely this well balanced. (Magnum)
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
