Wine Advisor
Roberto Voerzio, Barolo Sarmassa 2010
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2010 Barolo Sarmassa (tasted in a magnum) opens to soft, toasted notes of exotic spice, clove and black pepper. There’s a great level of dimension and fruit-driven softness at the heart of this delicious Barolo. Davide and Roberto cut away up to two thirds of each cluster in the vineyard to ensure evenness in ripening. All barrique Drink: 2017-2034. Roberto Voerzio started buying prized vineyard parcels in 1982 and has since amassed one of the most important portfolios of single-vineyards (15 parcels over totaling 12 hectares) in La Morra (with Sarmassa and a piece of Cerequio in the neighboring township of Barolo). He follows a unique winemaking philosophy that is somewhere on the spectrum between traditionalists and modernist, but Roberto himself brushes off these broad stroke categories with a shrug and a smile. “In the years between 2003 and 2007, my approach to oak changed over and over. I went from larger containers to smaller ones and back again to larger,” he says: “Ultimately no one really noticed. What is noticeable however is his non-interventionist’s approach. He uses ambient years without sulfites for the fermentations followed by spontaneous malolactic fermentations and does not filter. He also chooses different bottle formats to represent each wine (with a generous array of large format bottles) and sells them in meticulously numbered lots. Fossati was latest acquisition with 20 and 30 years vines. Importer: Winebow, www.winebow.com
Reviewed by: James Suckling
This shows incredible depth of fruit and intensity for the vintage with a full body yet super integrated and refined tannins. The texture is spellbinding. It caresses every inch of your palate. Fabulous. Only magnum. Try in 2019.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Seamless and gracious on the palate, the 2010 Barolo Sarmassa impresses for its silkiness and pure elegance. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, mint and cinnamon are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass. The 2010 is finessed, creamy and exceptionally polished from start to finish. The 2010 is one of the two Voerzio Barolos still aged exclusively in French oak (the other is the Torriglione) because of its small production. Both wines are also only bottled in magnums.
About the Producer
Based in La Morra, Roberto started in 1986 with just a few hectares and the goal of producing the finest Barolo in the region. His viticulture is characterized by high density plantings and extremely low yields (750g /vine). The techniques he meticulously applies in the vineyards of pruning, green harvesting and bunch-thinning leave the fruit riper and more concentrated in flavors and sugars while maintaining a balanced acidity. The Voerzio vineyards are located in the finest Crus of Barolo: La Serra, Brunate, Cerequio, Sarmassa, Rocche del’Annunziata and Fossati, with complimentary vineyards of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo all in the commune of La Morra. 20 hectares in total are farmed, all organically. In the winery, he is considered a classic ‘modernist’, with short fermentation on the skins, not exceeding one month. With the help of his son Davide in the cellar, the wines are aged in French oak barrique and botti, the Barolo for at least 2 years. Voerzio’s perfectionist approach in the vineyards, combined with his unrelenting quality of production and engagement in sustainable practices make his wines legendary, and are widely considered to constitute the superlative expression in the category.
