M. Chapoutier, Cote Rotie La Mordoree 1995

robert_parker97

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

The 1995 La Mordoree may turn out to rival the phenomenal 1991. It is the most complex, elegant, and multi-dimensional young Cote Rotie I have tasted from Chapoutier. The awesome aromatics include scents of coffee, black raspberries, vanilla, chocolate, hickory smoke, flowers, and Provencal olives. Super rich, with exceptional delicacy and precision, this wine is less massive than the 1991, but perhaps more compelling because of its extraordinary delicacy. This wine's texture and complexity suggest that Cote Rotie truly is the Musigny of the Rhone Valley. This is a hard wine to evaluate in terms of drinkability, but I suspect it will be thrilling to drink when released, and age effortlessly for two or more decades. Last tasted 6/96.

robert_parker98

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Chapoutier's Cote Rotie Cuvee Mordoree is made from a small parcel of 75-80 year old vines adjacent to Guigal's famed single vineyard, La Turque. The 1995 Cote Rotie Cuvee Mordoree may turn out to rival the phenomenal 1991. It is the most complex, elegant, and multi-dimensional young Cote Rotie I have tasted from Chapoutier. The awesome aromatics include scents of coffee, black-raspberries, vanilla, chocolate, hickory smoke, flowers, and Provencal olives. Super-rich, with exceptional delicacy and precision, this wine is less massive than the 1991, but perhaps more compelling because of its extraordinary delicacy. This wine's texture and complexity suggest that Cote Rotie truly is the Musigny of the Rhone Valley. This is a hard wine to evaluate in terms of drinkability, but I suspect it will be thrilling to drink when released, and age effortlessly for two or more decades. Chapoutier's top cuvees are consistently among the world's greatest wines. Unfortunately, they are made in extremely small quantities, ranging from 250 cases of the St.-Joseph Les Granites, to 600 cases of the Hermitage La Pavillon. They are also expensive, but no one can argue the fact that consumers are getting some of the world's greatest, most natural expressions of terroir, varietal character, and vintage personality. Moreover, these special cuvees have been remarkably brilliant in such difficult vintages as 1992 and 1993, where the finest Rhone wines were produced by Chapoutier. If my tasting notes read like a promotional campaign for this estate, it is because these are among the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Michel Chapoutier is quick to say that 1995 is one of the all-time great vintages for the northern Rhone, and in particular for Chapoutier. He compares it with 1990, 1961, and 1947. He is also quick to see the problems that 1995 presented, and the fact that too many Rhone Valley producers followed the same pattern as in 1994. In the latter vintage, it was essential to harvest early, but in 1995 harvesting early only produced wines that were made from physiologically unripe fruit, with extremely high acidity. Chapoutier's top vineyards in Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph, Cote Rotie, and Hermitage were harvested very late - in early October. He claims that in the five years that have passed since the great 1990 vintage, he is a far more talented winemaker as he "knew how to make noise in 1990, but now I know how to make music." Yields were tiny throughout all the estate vineyards, with most of the vineyards coming in under 20 hectoliters per hectare, and some of the top vineyards harvesting under a ton of fruit per acre. All in all, 1995 looks to be a sensational vintage for Chapoutier, with a number of extremely long-lived wines. Moreover, now that the 1994s have had some time in bottle, it can be said that 1994 is also a great vintage for this firm. Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 247-7070

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Chapoutier makes no bones about the fact that he prefers his 1996 Cote Roties to his 1995s. Wealthy readers with access to Chapoutier's wines will have fun determining whether the 1995 or 1996 Cote Rotie La Mordoree is the superior wine. Both are terrific examples of Cote Rotie with 20-25 years of evolution. Chapoutier prefers the 1996. The 1995 is a superb wine, but I am not sure the 1996 isn't a point or two better. Both wines possess intensely-saturated black/purple colors, and smoky, black raspberry, coffee, and chocolate-scented noses with black olives thrown in for complexity. The 1996 may have greater length, but that is splitting hairs at this level of quality. Both are medium to full-bodied, rich, extraordinary examples of Cote Rotie that possess power as well as finesse. Both will require cellaring to reveal their personalities. I suspect the 1995 needs 4-5 years of cellaring. It should drink well from 2003-2020. Prospective purchasers must have patience.