Wine Advisor
Leflaive, Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 1992
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Millionaires should have fun debating whether the 1992 Batard-Montrachet or Chevalier-Montrachet is superior. The Batard is the more evolved and precocious of the two. Both are beautifully well-knit, expansively flavored, full-bodied, super-concentrated white burgundies that display honeyed, orange, roasted nut, overripe apple-scented noses, buttery, creamy textures, super extraction of flavor, and long finishes. The Batard exhibits more mineral scents in its nose and flavors, and is more upfront. The Chevalier-Montrachet appears to be holding more in reserve than the Batard. The Chevalier explodes on the back of the palate and looks to have greater longevity. Both are beautifully well-knit, expansively flavored, full-bodied, super-concentrated white burgundies that display honeyed, orange, roasted nut, overripe apple-scented noses, buttery, creamy textures, super extraction of flavor, and long finishes. The Domaine Leflaive has enjoyed many successful vintages over the years - 1979, 1985, 1986, and 1989 come to mind immediately - but the 1992s are the finest young wines this domaine has produced. Yields averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare, far below most recent vintages. The wines are renowned for their purity and elegance, but the 1992s also display a special level of richness and intensity. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.
Reviewed by: Lisa Perrotti-Brown
Going golden in colour, this is classic mature white Burgundy with a bouquet of buttered toast, creme caramel, crushed hazelnuts and dried mango plus a hint of preserved mandarin peel. The palate is very rich and seductive with a pleasant oiliness to the texture and a long finish of savoury layers. It’s in its prime right now.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted in Hong Kong. This totally dominated the rather enervated Chevalier ’66 served alongside. A truly great vintage for the domaine, the Batard does not disappoint with supreme delineation on the mineral-rich bouquet, although not quite as crystalline as the Chevalier ’92 opened last year. Fragrant aromas of linden, citrus lemon, wet limestone and apricot-blossom emerge. The palate is beautifully balanced with secondary tertiary notes emerging with time. Very harmonious on the candied finish…a beautiful Grand Cru. Tasted November 2011.
About the Producer
Domaine Leflaive, based in Puligny-Montrachet, is one of the most important producers in the Côte de Beaune. Focusing almost entirely on white wines made from Chardonnay, the Domaine makes four grand cru wines and four premier crus in Puligny-Montrachet. The Domaine was founded by Joseph Leflaive, a former engineer. In 1905, he purchased vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet which had been ravaged by phylloxera, and set about replanting and expanding them. Upon his death in 1953, his sons Vincent and Jo took over the running of the estate, and are widely credited with building up the reputation that Leflaive enjoys today. In 1990, cousins Anne Claude and Olivier Leflaive took over the running of the estate, with Olivier leaving in 1994 to run his own negociant business. Anne Claude converted the vineyards to biodynamics and is considered a pioneer of that movement in Burgundy. After her death in 2015, her nephew Brice de la Morandiere has taken over the running of Domaine Leflaive. Domaine Leflaive's most important wine is arguably the Montrachet Grand Cru, which, depending on vintage, can fetch upwards of $5000 a bottle. The domaine also has land in Chevalier-Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, and makes a grand cru wine from each. Additional to this, there are several premier cru wines, the most important of which is probably the Les Clavoillon, which was one of the wines included in the 1976 Judgment of Paris. Domaine Leflaive also makes a sole red wine from Pinot Noir under the Blagny Sous le Dos d'Ane Premier Cru title.
