Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2017

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: William Kelley

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is one of the wines of the vintage this year, unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of red and black cherries, espresso roast, dark chocolate, peony and subtle hints of forest floor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered, with striking concentration and dimension, rich but fine-grained structuring tannins and a bright line of animating acidity, concluding with a finish that's simultaneously chalky and distinctly floral. This will be one of the most long-lived 2017 red Burgundies.

robert_parker0

Reviewed by: William Kelley

This vineyard always demands patience, and sure enough, the 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was the least coherent at this early stage. That it's richly structured, full-bodied and multidimensional is apparent—descriptions that almost invariably apply to this particular wine—but it's hard to say much more. I'm refraining from giving it even a bracketed score.

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: William Kelley

Roumier's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has turned out beautifully, clearly surpassing its 2018 counterpart to my palate. Unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, peonies, plums, warm spices and orange rind, framed by a creamy patina of new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a layered, concentrated core that's girdled by succulent acids and underpinned by ripe, powdery tannins. It's reminiscent of a more muscular version of Roumier's superb 2007.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence on the finish. This will be outstanding, yet it should not be broached for some time. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.

vinous93

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a natural, open-knit bouquet of red cherries and wild strawberry, plus a hint of balsamic in the background. It feels a little higher-toned than Bruno Clair's Bonnes-Mares, and that becomes more evident with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, robust and solid, with a slightly chewy entry and good depth, and rather compact on the finish. I would afford this 3–5 years in bottle to develop more charm. I was cautious when scoring this Bonnes-Mares from barrel, and that caution appears to be vindicated by this blind assessment. Don't get me wrong; it's a lovely Bonnes-Mares, just not from Christophe Roumier's top drawer. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

vinous95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of reduction on the nose when I visited (Christophe Roumier was taken aback, as it had been racked three weeks earlier). Fortunately, the palate shows great potential; it’s as beautifully balanced as ever, with a fine bead of acidity. This is more understated and less outgoing than other vintages encountered from barrel, and not quite as persistent on the finish, but with a fine dash of black pepper on the aftertaste. There is something very assured about this Bonnes-Mares, though this year, it is Les Amoureuses that sends tingles down the spine.

vinous95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence on the finish. This will be outstanding, yet it should not be broached for some time. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.