Wine Advisor
Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 1990
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The wines of this famed domaine, long known for its classic old style burgundies, do indeed improve with cellaring. The Domaine Roumier made some of the finest 1988s and their 1990s range from excellent to outstanding. In 1990, Roumier made only one cuvee of Bonnes Mares, blending his vineyard holdings from the Chambolle-Musigny side with those from the Morey St.-Denis side. Readers may remember that in 1988 there were 100 cases made of a fabulous Cuvee Vieilles Vignes. Although Roumier's 1990 does not rival his top cuvee of 1988, it is a terrific red burgundy, with a dark ruby/garnet color, a big, spicy, plummy, earthy nose, rich, opulent, muscular, full-bodied flavors that exhibit terrific extraction of fruit, and a spicy, mineral, iron-like finish with significant tannin. It reminds me of his 1985, but with much more stuffing and grip. Drink it between 1994-2008. Importer: Chateau and Estates, New York, NY.
About the Producer
The domaine was founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, who began domaine bottling in 1945. He was succeeded in 1957 by his son Jean-Marie and now grandson Christophe, who joined his father in 1982 and took over completely in 1992. Most of the wines are rented (en fermage) from family members although Ruchottes Chambertin is held on a share cropping deal with an external proprietor, Michel Bonnefond. The wines are seductively fruity in their youth yet with excellent ageing potential. The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, with a table de tri at the winery since 2003. They are mostly destemmed, albeit depending on vineyard and vintage, with a few more stems being used recently – then placed in wooden fermenters. The juice is given a cool soak at 15° then allowed to start naturally. The juice is punched down twice a day and temperature controlled so as not to exceed 32°C. There is no great reliance on new wood in the maturation cellar, with 15-25% being used for village wines, 25-40% for premiers crus and no more than 50% for Bonnes Mares. In recent years Christophe has been searching for, and achieving, a greater sense of precision in his wines.
1981(1)1989(1)
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