Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2012

robert_parker98

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

The 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was showing just a little reduction when I tasted it from barrel, but you can easily discern what will inevitably be a fabulous bouquet with intense dark cherry and cassis fruit lurking underneath and waiting to blossom once in bottle. Peeking deeper into the aromatics, there is just wonderful mineralite. The palate is structured and precise on the entry. Here is a tight fist of black fruit – a serious Bonnes-Mares compared to others, with a beguiling sense of symmetry and just incredible length. This is stunning. Christophe Roumier was multitasking when I arrived at his domaine in Chambolle-Musigny: his mobile constantly trilling and tasting parties arriving in haphazard fashion, running here and running there. And as we know, men are not cut out for multitasking. No wonder he complained about his headache, though hopefully the aspirin, washed down with a glug of Musigny, relieved his mal de tete. But generally Christophe Roumier was in top form – just like his wines. He commenced the harvest on 22 September after the usual travails of the growing season that reduced his crops. He rued the fact that he is undergoing an expansion of his cellars, but after 2012 and a meagre 2013, has little to put in them. He suggested a comparison between 2010 and 2012, though the latter is less tannic and more “weightless” – a great word to describe many of this vintage’s wines. This year there is all but one and a half barrels of his elusive Musigny. It is an utterly transcendental wine, perhaps equal to the 2005 when I encountered that out of barrel, but if that proves just a wee bit difficult to find, then the Clos de la Bussieres is a quite brilliant Morey Saint Denis that will offer immense pleasure over the next 20 years. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Georges Roumier has a touch of reduction to get round first, though underneath are sophisticated red and black fruit, the oak nicely integrated though needing another couple of years to fully knit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, dense black fruit, quite saline in the mouth but nicely focused with a structured, introspective but extraordinarily long finish that will require three or four years to mellow. There is so much potential here - words written before I knew the identity of the grower.