Wine Advisor
Georges Roumier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2023
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: William Kelley
The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is shaping up brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries and mulberries mingled with blood orange, musky spices and rose petals. Full-bodied, cool and layered, it's rich but mineral, with an enveloping core of fruit, lively acids and sweet, powdery tannins. As ever, this is a broad-shouldered wine, but it remains impeccably balanced.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is comprised of four different cuvées this year. Some fruit was declassified and blended with the Bourgogne Rouge. The fermenters were full this vintage. The bouquet has fabulous delineation, with subtle mineral/crushed stone infusing the blackberry and blueberry fruit. The palate is supremely well balanced with wonderful structure and tension from the start. It's classic in style, though it will need a few years to absorb the 75% whole bunch. It will be worth the wait.
About the Producer
The domaine was founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, who began domaine bottling in 1945. He was succeeded in 1957 by his son Jean-Marie and now grandson Christophe, who joined his father in 1982 and took over completely in 1992. Most of the wines are rented (en fermage) from family members although Ruchottes Chambertin is held on a share cropping deal with an external proprietor, Michel Bonnefond. The wines are seductively fruity in their youth yet with excellent ageing potential. The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, with a table de tri at the winery since 2003. They are mostly destemmed, albeit depending on vineyard and vintage, with a few more stems being used recently – then placed in wooden fermenters. The juice is given a cool soak at 15° then allowed to start naturally. The juice is punched down twice a day and temperature controlled so as not to exceed 32°C. There is no great reliance on new wood in the maturation cellar, with 15-25% being used for village wines, 25-40% for premiers crus and no more than 50% for Bonnes Mares. In recent years Christophe has been searching for, and achieving, a greater sense of precision in his wines.
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