Domaine de la Romanée Conti, La Tache Grand Cru 1985

robert_parker98

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

The La Tache offers surreal and celestial aromas of oriental spices and flowers, masses of ripe fruit, scents of truffles, dazzling concentration, tremendous breadth of flavor, exquisite length, and 20 or more years of cellaring potential. This fabled estate has had a brilliant track record since 1978. Lalou Bize-Leroy and Aubert de Villaine seem to have everything tightly within their grasps, so it is unlikely that some of the lapses in quality control that occurred previously will resurface. I am sure they still cannot understand why their estate is so frequently singled out for malicious attacks, but no one should have any trouble appreciating the domaine's 1985s, which are their best wines in decades, even surpassing their sensational 1978s. The problem is coming up with the cash to finance them. The wines, aged in 100% new oak, are never filtered.

robert_parker90

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

PRODUCTION: 1,624 cases. A brilliant wine from cask, the 1985 La Tache remains expansive and fragrant, but bottle age appears to have given the wine more delicacy and lightness. The color is an extremely light ruby, with no signs of age. The nose offers up gobs of sweet, overripe red and black fruits intertwined with smoky, toasty new oak. On the palate, there is sweet, jammy fruit, full body, a harmonious interaction of tannin, acidity, and fruit, and a luscious, silky-textured finish. Given my high praise for this wine, I would have hoped for more, but performances such as this are further proof that Burgundy is indeed the wine for free-spending masochists. This wine should continue to drink well for another 5-7 years, but it needs to be closely monitored given the fact that in 1995 it exhibits less weight and depth than I would have anticipated. Although it is unquestionably an outstanding wine, I had hoped for something riveting.

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Poured from magnum, the 1985 La Tache is surprisingly paler in colour than I might have expected. The nose is very refined with touches of maraschino, limestone, strawberry preserve...the quintessential pure Pinote really. The palate is medium-bodied and perfectly balanced. This is an understated Grand Cru with filigree tannins and a refined finish with nuanced lapsang souchong embroidered on the finish. It is not La Tache that boldly goes out to prove itself. It is not the great ever produced. But it is an absolute masterclass in understatement. Tasted November 2012.

robert_parker91

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. Having only encountered the La Tâche 1985 once from magnum, I was intrigued to see how it shows from bottle. To be honest, this did not live up to the billing and as far as anyone could tell (including Aubert de Villaine) there was nothing wrong with it. First, it looks far more mature than the aforementioned magnum from 2011. There are plenty of dried herbs and surprisingly (for such a precocious vintage) plenty of leafy red berry fruit that just lack the presence of the 1991 or the precision of the 1980. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth texture. It is nicely balanced, but I was not the only one to remark on a lack of depth here, almost a predictable finish that does not seem to go anywhere despite allowing it to open in my glass. As a Burgundy 1985 it is satisfactory, but if I were paying the market price then I might defer. I wonder whether bottles are on the slippery slope and magnums holding up strong?

vinous92

Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni

The richness and intensity of the flavors marries nicely with the 1985 La Tâche. Now fully mature and quite pretty, the 1985 is peaking and not likely to improve from here. Exotic spice, dried herbs, rose petal and mint are all laced into the subtle finish.