Wine Advisor
Roger Sabon, Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon 2004
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Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
I liked the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret du Sabon slightly more here than in the recent 2004 retrospective. The most elegant and seamless in the lineup, it has classic small berry fruit, flowers, licorice and herbes de Provence-like aromas and flavors to go with a full-bodied, textured, layered feel. It shows rocking Grenache character and is drinking beautifully. A brilliantly run estate, Domaine Roger Sabon covers close to 44 acres that are spread throughout the appellation, and the wines have been made by Didier Negron since 2001. This retrospective focused on their top cuvee, the Secret du Sabon, which is a field blend of roughly (the exact blend is a "secret") 90% Grenache with the balance other permitted varieties (from 100-year-old vines), that-s aged all in 600-liter barrels. While the first released vintage was 1998, they also bottled a small amount in 1990, 1995 (the only one I've tasted? superb) and 1996. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC: tel. (704) 358-1565
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
Along the same lines, yet more Grenache driven in its garrigue, flowers, saddle leather and sweet raspberry fruit, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon (90% Grenache and 10% Syrah aged 18 months in varying size barrels) is medium to full-bodied, elegant and seamless, with a rocking texture and a lengthy finish. It blossoms in the glass, and should also have an easy 4-6 years of additional prime drinking. These two superb efforts were made by Didier Negron, who’s the son-in-law of Jean-Jacques Sabon and started making the wines as of the 2001 vintage. Both are gorgeous wines, with the Cuvee Prestige more classic in style, and the Le Secret des Sabon slightly more elegant and perfumed, with big Grenache flair. The domaine can produce up to four red Chateauneufs du Papes and a white in any given vintage.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
One of the vintage’s strongest wines is undeniably the 2004 Le Secret des Sabon. It is full-bodied, powerful, with hints of Amarone intermixed with saddle leather, roasted meats, incense, and chocolate. In addition, plenty of pepper, black currant, and sweet, ripe cherry notes intertwined with nuances of Provencal herbs are found in the wine’s fabulous texture. Plenty of structure and length are also present in one of the few wines of this vintage that will evolve for 15-20 more years. Jean-Jacques Sabon and his family run this renowned estate which is consistently one of the reference points of Chateauneuf du Pape. What is probably confusing for consumers is that there are four different Chateauneuf du Papes, but the first three are available in good commercial quantities, with only the Le Secret des Sabon a limited cuvee of under 200 cases. P.S. By the way, Jean-Jacques Sabon changed the upbringing of Le Secret des Sabon from some of the cuvee being aged in small oak barrels to 100% of it now aged in 600-liter demi-muids. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The virtually perfect 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon has an opaque purple color and a fabulous nose of Amarone, new saddle leather, chocolate, and peppery, blackberry and currant notes with hints of roasted meat and Provencal herbs. Even some truffle notes emerge as the wine sits in the glass. It is powerful and full-bodied, and actually reminded me somewhat of the 1998 Henri Bonneau Reserve des Celestins. This is killer stuff! Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
About the Producer
Our family estate was founded in 1952 by Roger SABON. After several generations, the estate has reached a total surface of 50 hectares split up on both sides of the Rhône. 18 hectares belong to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, on the left bank of the River, and spread over 14 different plots. On the right bank, the vineyard includes 12 hectares in the Lirac appellation, 6 hectares of Côtes-du-Rhône and 14 hectares of Vin de France. This diversity allows us to develop and offer our customers a wide choice of wines with varied profiles White wines represent around 5% of the total production. Grapes are hand harvested, placed into boxes and undergo a light pneumatic pressing. The juices obtained are then protected from the oxidation phenomena in order to preserve the aromatic potential. Our “Vins de France” will then ferment in stainless steel vats, whereas our Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc will ferment in 25 hl wooden tanks. The fermentation temperature is regulated around 16 ° C. Vinification of red wine is characterized, for our entire wine range, by a long period of maceration of the grapes in vats, associated with a relatively gentle extraction. Destemming – the removal of the vegetal part of the bunch- is required here in order to prevent any problem during maceration.
