Wine Advisor
Robert Groffier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2018
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru feels a little disjointed on the nose, brambly red fruit, quite earthy, just a touch of reduction here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite solid and dense, initially hemmed in but it responds positively with aeration and develops some lovely earthy red fruit towards its structured finish. It should meld together with bottle age, so give it three or four years in bottle. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is raised in 25% new oak and is almost entirely made from whole bunches. That stem addition gently guides the aromatics here, imparting a subtle pepperiness and earthiness that combines deftly with the vivid black fruit; perhaps there is less blue fruit here compared to other Bonnes-Mares this vintage. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, reminiscent of de Vogüé in some ways. The slightly confit finish manages to retain impressive freshness. It is missing a little persistence, but otherwise this is a fine, quite delicious Bonnes-Mares.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru feels a little disjointed on the nose, brambly red fruit, quite earthy, just a touch of reduction here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite solid and dense, initially hemmed in but it responds positively with aeration and develops some lovely earthy red fruit towards its structured finish. It should meld together with bottle age, so give it three or four years in bottle. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.
About the Producer
The Groffier family are among the best wine makers in the Côte de Nuits. Originally founded by Robert Groffier’s father, Jules in the 1950s, the domaine is now run by Robert’s grandson, Nicolas. The domaine consists of almost 8 ha of fine vineyards, including 1 ha of Bonnes Mares, almost 0.5 ha of Chambertin Clos de Bèze and a full 1 ha of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses (the biggest single owner of this vineyard). The wine making technique is flexible and the proportion of stems to be retained is decided annually. nowadays, up to 20% of stems are retained, compared to 50% 20 years ago. The destemed grapes are transferred to stainless steel vats without crushing and cooled to 10-12 degrees so the natural yeast fermentation starts 4-5 days later – to allow further extraction of colour from the skins. Frequent short pigeages are done, and the temperature is allowed to rise up to 35 degrees – which retains even more colour to the liquid. After 17-20 days maceration, the temperature descends to 20-22 degrees and after pressing age in oak, the percentage of new one vary per cuvée and vintage – from none to the Bourgogne to up to 100% for the grand crus. The wines are only racked once, usually only a year after the vintage. The wines return to vat as the new vintage is put into barrel, so only one vintage is in barrel at any time. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
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