Wine Advisor
Robert Groffier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2008
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
This has a very ripe lifted blueberry, violet, tangerine scent bouquet, with good extraction. Just a little tinniness developing in the glass. The broody palate is rounded, good extraction, but rather linear towards the finish, missing a little exuberance and joie-de-vivre that Bonnes-Mares should exude. Drink 2012-2025+ Tasted January 2010.
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
The Groffier 2008 Bonnes Mares delivers a savage and site-typical blast of berry concentrate, horehound, smoked meat, juniper, and a whiff of pitch. Sweetly ripe red raspberry and strawberry tinged with citrus oil and herbs on a silken and juicily bright palate convey an almost white wine-like sense of enervation, and only in the gripping, attractively bitter-tart finish does one become aware of this Pinot’s abundant, fine tannins. This seems to have energy to burn and I wouldn’t hesitate to plan on 6-8 years of watchful cellaring. Nicolas Groffier seems not to have been bashful when it comes to extracting flavors from the family’s 2008 grapes (harvested in a mere 5 days, finishing October 1), despite what he emphasizes was the tiny size of both yields and berries. When it comes to elevage, though, he was cautious even at a risk he acknowledges of wines that might show stiffly and reductively for a while after bottling, having racked the young 2008s into tank after just shy of 12 months, which for some lots meant almost immediately after the conclusion of malo. (Bottling sessions were in December and February). Natural alcohols in 2008 were in the upper 12’s (the 2007s were very slightly higher) and typically adjusted by about a quarter of a degree. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com
About the Producer
The Groffier family are among the best wine makers in the Côte de Nuits. Originally founded by Robert Groffier’s father, Jules in the 1950s, the domaine is now run by Robert’s grandson, Nicolas. The domaine consists of almost 8 ha of fine vineyards, including 1 ha of Bonnes Mares, almost 0.5 ha of Chambertin Clos de Bèze and a full 1 ha of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses (the biggest single owner of this vineyard). The wine making technique is flexible and the proportion of stems to be retained is decided annually. nowadays, up to 20% of stems are retained, compared to 50% 20 years ago. The destemed grapes are transferred to stainless steel vats without crushing and cooled to 10-12 degrees so the natural yeast fermentation starts 4-5 days later – to allow further extraction of colour from the skins. Frequent short pigeages are done, and the temperature is allowed to rise up to 35 degrees – which retains even more colour to the liquid. After 17-20 days maceration, the temperature descends to 20-22 degrees and after pressing age in oak, the percentage of new one vary per cuvée and vintage – from none to the Bourgogne to up to 100% for the grand crus. The wines are only racked once, usually only a year after the vintage. The wines return to vat as the new vintage is put into barrel, so only one vintage is in barrel at any time. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
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