Wine Advisor
Robert Groffier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 1988
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Groffier only makes 175 cases of the Bonnes Mares. It is slightly deeper and more structured than Les Amoureuses, and shows a more smoky character because it is aged in 100% new oak (Les Amoureuses sees 50%). It has a long, deep, somewhat gamey character with sensational flavor extract and length. It is drinkable now, but should be at its best between 1991-2000.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
After twenty years, this Bonnes-Mares is roaring on all four cylinders. A beautiful, floral nose with rose petals, burnt match, succulent red-berried fruit (raspberry, cranberry and wild strawberry.) The palate is medium-bodied but packed and compact, firm tannins, ripe juicy black cherry fruit with a touch of blueberry and bilberry. Very fleshy, this really seduces the palate, caresses towards the sorbet-like finish. Wonderful. Drink now-2015. Tasted November 2008.
About the Producer
The Groffier family are among the best wine makers in the Côte de Nuits. Originally founded by Robert Groffier’s father, Jules in the 1950s, the domaine is now run by Robert’s grandson, Nicolas. The domaine consists of almost 8 ha of fine vineyards, including 1 ha of Bonnes Mares, almost 0.5 ha of Chambertin Clos de Bèze and a full 1 ha of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses (the biggest single owner of this vineyard). The wine making technique is flexible and the proportion of stems to be retained is decided annually. nowadays, up to 20% of stems are retained, compared to 50% 20 years ago. The destemed grapes are transferred to stainless steel vats without crushing and cooled to 10-12 degrees so the natural yeast fermentation starts 4-5 days later – to allow further extraction of colour from the skins. Frequent short pigeages are done, and the temperature is allowed to rise up to 35 degrees – which retains even more colour to the liquid. After 17-20 days maceration, the temperature descends to 20-22 degrees and after pressing age in oak, the percentage of new one vary per cuvée and vintage – from none to the Bourgogne to up to 100% for the grand crus. The wines are only racked once, usually only a year after the vintage. The wines return to vat as the new vintage is put into barrel, so only one vintage is in barrel at any time. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
