Wine Advisor
Robert Groffier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Bonnes Mares opens with knockout aromatics that meld into layers of fresh, vibrant fruit. Medium in body yet wonderfully intense in its flavors, the Bonnes-Mares impresses for its class and balance. An array of dark fruit, minerals, violets and white flowers linger on the pointed, saline finish. Groffier's vines in Bonnes Mares sit on a slope with both terres rouges and terres blanches.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Good medium red. Primary aromas of blackberry, wild herbs and pepper, along with a whiff of game. Dense and closed today, conveying a strong impression of power. There's a slightly sugary quality to the black raspberry fruit, but also a distinctly savory character to the notes of licorice, fresh herbs and underbrush. The cooler sites are a bit less 2009-typical, noted Nicolas Groffier, . . . a bit 2005-like. Finishes very long, with substantial dusty tannins and a piquant hint of lemon rind.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Bonnes Mares opens with knockout aromatics that meld into layers of fresh, vibrant fruit. Medium in body yet wonderfully intense in its flavors, the Bonnes Mares impresses for its class and balance. An array of dark fruit, minerals, violets and white flowers linger on the pointed, saline finish. Groffier’s vines in Bonnes Mares sit on a slope with both terres rouges and terres blanches. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. This is a beautiful set of wines from Groffier. The estate farms eight hectares of vineyards, all of which it owns. The fruit receives a cold soak prior to fermentation that accounts for much of the trademark perfume these wines show. The 2009s were bottled between mid-December, 2010 and mid-January 2011. Various US importers, including: Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris, peter.vezan@wanadoo.fr
About the Producer
The Groffier family are among the best wine makers in the Côte de Nuits. Originally founded by Robert Groffier’s father, Jules in the 1950s, the domaine is now run by Robert’s grandson, Nicolas. The domaine consists of almost 8 ha of fine vineyards, including 1 ha of Bonnes Mares, almost 0.5 ha of Chambertin Clos de Bèze and a full 1 ha of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses (the biggest single owner of this vineyard). The wine making technique is flexible and the proportion of stems to be retained is decided annually. nowadays, up to 20% of stems are retained, compared to 50% 20 years ago. The destemed grapes are transferred to stainless steel vats without crushing and cooled to 10-12 degrees so the natural yeast fermentation starts 4-5 days later – to allow further extraction of colour from the skins. Frequent short pigeages are done, and the temperature is allowed to rise up to 35 degrees – which retains even more colour to the liquid. After 17-20 days maceration, the temperature descends to 20-22 degrees and after pressing age in oak, the percentage of new one vary per cuvée and vintage – from none to the Bourgogne to up to 100% for the grand crus. The wines are only racked once, usually only a year after the vintage. The wines return to vat as the new vintage is put into barrel, so only one vintage is in barrel at any time. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
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