Wine Advisor
Robert Groffier, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2017
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is somewhat underwhelming on the nose and lacks the freshness of its peers; I wonder if it has closed down. The palate is medium-bodied with an earthy entry, balanced and fresh, but overtly leafy and slightly herbaceous toward the finish. There is something very old-school about this Bonnes-Mares, but I wish it had a little more energy. I'm keeping the faith. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was bottled just before Christmas 2018. It has an engaging, almost beguiling bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, <em>sous-bois</em>, light tobacco aromas and a discreet marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and slightly ferrous red berry fruit. More broody and introspective than the nascent 2018, with a subtly spicy pinch of cracked black pepper on the fresh finish. Excellent.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and includes 100% whole bunch fruit. It has a precocious, extrovert bouquet - which is exactly what I demand from my Bonnes-Mares – featuring intense black and blueberry fruit and hints of violet mixed with hoisin. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, saturated tannin that lends this Bonnes-Mares a fleshy, almost corpulent mouthfeel. There is great volume here and yet ample freshness and focus toward the pastille-like finish. Superb.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and includes 100% whole bunch fruit. It has a precocious, extrovert bouquet - which is exactly what I demand from my Bonnes-Mares – featuring intense black and blueberry fruit and hints of violet mixed with hoisin. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, saturated tannin that lends this Bonnes-Mares a fleshy, almost corpulent mouthfeel. There is great volume here and yet ample freshness and focus toward the pastille-like finish. Superb.
About the Producer
The Groffier family are among the best wine makers in the Côte de Nuits. Originally founded by Robert Groffier’s father, Jules in the 1950s, the domaine is now run by Robert’s grandson, Nicolas. The domaine consists of almost 8 ha of fine vineyards, including 1 ha of Bonnes Mares, almost 0.5 ha of Chambertin Clos de Bèze and a full 1 ha of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses (the biggest single owner of this vineyard). The wine making technique is flexible and the proportion of stems to be retained is decided annually. nowadays, up to 20% of stems are retained, compared to 50% 20 years ago. The destemed grapes are transferred to stainless steel vats without crushing and cooled to 10-12 degrees so the natural yeast fermentation starts 4-5 days later – to allow further extraction of colour from the skins. Frequent short pigeages are done, and the temperature is allowed to rise up to 35 degrees – which retains even more colour to the liquid. After 17-20 days maceration, the temperature descends to 20-22 degrees and after pressing age in oak, the percentage of new one vary per cuvée and vintage – from none to the Bourgogne to up to 100% for the grand crus. The wines are only racked once, usually only a year after the vintage. The wines return to vat as the new vintage is put into barrel, so only one vintage is in barrel at any time. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration.
1988(1)2001(1)2002(2)2003(1)2004(2)2005(1)2006(3)2008(3)2009(2)2010(2)2012(1)2013(4)2014(3)2015(8)2016(4)
Package Size
12 x 75cl
