Wine Advisor
Pierre Usseglio, Chateauneuf Du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The limited production 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres (400 cases) is 100% Grenache aged 40% in old barrels, 30% in tank, and 30% in new oak casks. A spicy, full-bodied, powerful effort, it is built for 20+ years of cellaring. The color is a saturated ruby/purple and the nose offers up scents of camphor, toast, blackberry and blueberry liqueur, incense, licorice, truffle and spice box. The wine’s concentration and superb intensity absorb the oak in a shockingly easy fashion. This classic, massive, rich Chateauneuf du Pape needs 2-4 years of bottle age and should drink well over the following two decades. (Not yet released) One of my favorite stops on my trips to the southern Rhone is at Domaine Pierre Usseglio where brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio have accomplished special things. A new state-of-the-art tasting room has been added, somewhat unusual in Chateauneuf du Pape where little has changed in the three decades I have been tasting there. However, the small, discrete Usseglio tasting room would never be compared with tasting rooms that exist in Bordeaux and California. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is probably the softest, most forward and evolved wine the Usseglios have made under this designation. Luscious, with loads of fig, black cherry jam, camphor and licorice-infused blackberry notes, the wine is concentrated, rich, and while still primary, capable of lasting 15-20 years. It is certainly the most seductive and early drinking Reserve des Deux Freres produced to date, and finished at 15.5% natural alcohol. One of the top estates in Chateauneuf du Pape is that of the two brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio. Their cellars are just north of the village, adjacent to the walls of the ruins of the pope’s palace. They have nearly 60 acres under vine, and make three cuvees of red wines in the top vintages. Their classic or traditional cuvee is made from a blend of mostly Grenache, with some Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre. Their mostly unoaked, tank-fermented and -aged Mon Aieul comes from very old vines (about 85 years of age) and tiny yields, while their cuvee Des Deux Freres leans in a slightly more modern direction for Chateauneuf du Pape, with 50% of it now aged in small barrels, 20% in tank, and 30% in 600-liter demi-muids. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
Reviewed by: Joe Czerwinski
The barrel-aged, all-Grenache 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres shows hints of cedar and mocha on the nose, then moves into mature notes of leather, date and fig, finishing chocolaty and warm. It's still full-bodied and lush on the palate, but without the freshness and bold primary fruit of its youth, the alcohol has become more apparent. Drink it over the next few years.
About the Producer
Château USSEGLIO is a family business. Its creation dates back to 1948, when grandfather Francis USSEGLIO left Italy to work as a wine worker at CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE. 1949 saw his first harvest come out of the oven. Later, his son Pierre took over the estate and expanded Château Pierre Usseglio. Today it covers 39 hectares, 24 hectares of Châteauneuf-du-Pape red, 1 hectare of Châteauneuf-du-Pape white, 6 hectares of Lillac red, 6 hectares of Côtes du Rhône and 2 hectares of French wines developed by Pierre's two sons. Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. The estate produces the traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape red wines. Half of the vines in the winery are over 65 years old and the other half are about 40 years old. The yields obtained are very low, around 20 to 25 hectolitres per hectare, depending on the vintage. Harvesting is always done by hand and sorting is selective. The grapes are destemmed and the winemaking process lasts 25 to 30 days, after which the wine is aged 50% in oak barrels for 12 days and 50% in concrete tanks. The result is a powerful, rounded wine with intense aromas of red fruit and spices. The wines of this estate are best consumed over a period of 5 to 10 years, depending on taste and vintage.
