Wine Advisor
Pierre Usseglio, Chateauneuf Du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres 2006
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres, which comes from Les Serres, La Crau, and Esquirons (which is high on the plateau just behind the ruined chateau of the village), is an 1,800-bottle cuvee made from 100% Grenache. Unlike the Mon Aieul, part of the Deux Freres spends time in one and two year old small barrels, and the rest in 600-liter demi-muids. A fabulous effort, it may be the single greatest wine of the vintage, although the 2006 Clos des Papes and a few others will certainly challenge it. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by aromas of charcoal, pepper, blueberries, blackberries, camphor, licorice, and incense. The incredibly complex aromatics are matched by a palate of massive intensity, extraordinary purity, and an unctuous texture. This amazing wine unfolds slowly in the glass, but wow, what a ride it takes the taster on! After 5-8 years of bottle age, it should prove to be a modern day monument for Chateauneuf du Pape, evolving for three decades or more. What a superlative performance from proprietors Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. This is one of the few estates where the 2006s are so great that they eclipse their brilliant 2005s, and come very close to what was accomplished in 2007. 2007 is another stunning success from brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
A candidate for the wine of the vintage, and one of the few wines to hit this level of quality in the vintage, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is a selection of 100% Grenache that was raised 60% in demi-muids and 40% in two- to three-year-old barrels. Possessing a slightly darker color than the Mon Aieul and a bigger, richer wine, it offers incredible notes of cassis, black currants, smoked herbs and leather in a full-bodied, voluptuous, ripe yet seamless package. It will hold for a decade, yet it’s a thrill ride today.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is one of the two or three finest wines of the vintage. The quintessential Chateauneuf du Pape, made from 100% old vine Grenache aged in one-, two-, and three-year-old small barrels and larger demi-muids, has a black/bluish color and a remarkably aromatic nose of scorched earth, ground pepper, smoked herbs, meat juices, and oodles of blackberry, cassis, and sweet cherry fruit. A wine of extraordinary intensity, density, and power, but with sweet tannin and relatively low acidity, this wine will be approachable in 2-3 years and last for at least 20-25. These are marvelous wines. This estate has been on an outrageous run of successful vintages ever since 1998, no small thanks to the extraordinary efforts of the two brothers, Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. For them 2005 is a very structured, concentrated, powerful vintage that will require significant cellaring. Their 2006s are among the great successes of that vintage, much more charming and up-front than the 2005s, but concentrated. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
About the Producer
Château USSEGLIO is a family business. Its creation dates back to 1948, when grandfather Francis USSEGLIO left Italy to work as a wine worker at CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE. 1949 saw his first harvest come out of the oven. Later, his son Pierre took over the estate and expanded Château Pierre Usseglio. Today it covers 39 hectares, 24 hectares of Châteauneuf-du-Pape red, 1 hectare of Châteauneuf-du-Pape white, 6 hectares of Lillac red, 6 hectares of Côtes du Rhône and 2 hectares of French wines developed by Pierre's two sons. Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. The estate produces the traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape red wines. Half of the vines in the winery are over 65 years old and the other half are about 40 years old. The yields obtained are very low, around 20 to 25 hectolitres per hectare, depending on the vintage. Harvesting is always done by hand and sorting is selective. The grapes are destemmed and the winemaking process lasts 25 to 30 days, after which the wine is aged 50% in oak barrels for 12 days and 50% in concrete tanks. The result is a powerful, rounded wine with intense aromas of red fruit and spices. The wines of this estate are best consumed over a period of 5 to 10 years, depending on taste and vintage.
