Wine Advisor
Montevertine, Le Pergole Torte 2004
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Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2004 Le Pergole Torte (100% Sangioveto) is a special wine. Beautiful dark cherry, spice, mineral and menthol nuances emerge from its layered, beautiful frame. It shows outstanding depth buttressed by finessed, silky tannins in a classic, medium-bodied style. Today the wine remains very primary. The full breadth of its expression will come only with extended cellaring. Readers seeking instant gratification or who want to be blown away by sheer concentration will likely find more pleasure in other wines from this great vintage. Those who are willing to invest the time to appreciate this wine’s elegance, finesse and textural beauty will be amply rewarded with a superb bottle of wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Readers looking for delicate, perfumed Sangiovese and Sangiovese-based wines need look no further than Montevertine. The estate is located in Radda, one of the cooler, fresher micro-climates in Tuscany. The wines have always required bottle age to develop, yet these are wines that showcase an aromatic side of Sangiovese that shares much in common with Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, rather than the more overt fruit-driven wines that are made elsewhere. Readers who have visited the property know the facilities are cramped. As a result of space constraints all the wines see multiple bottlings and small variations are therefore possible. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2004 Le Pergole Torte is flat-out great. Fine, silky tannins frame expressive red berries, flowers, mint, spices and tobacco as the wine opens up in the glass. This is one of the most refined Pergole Tortes ever made. The balance of fruit, acidity and structure is nothing short of pure magic. The 2004 has enough fruit to drink well for a number of years, but it is also insanely beautiful, even today. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2034. In a week during which I tasted most of the reference point Sangioveses and Sangiovese-based reds, one wine stuck out - Le Pergole Torte. Quite honestly, I had a hard time getting to sleep the night I tasted these wines. They were that viscerally thrilling. Le Pergole Torte isn’t a great Tuscan or Italian wine. It is simply one of the world’s elite wines. Montevertine is located in Radda, one of the coolest, highest-altitude spots in Chianti Classico. When I visited last April, the vineyards were noticeably more backward in their development relative to what I had seen in the other parts of the region. Le Pergole Torte was a groundbreaking wine when it was first conceived by proprietor Sergio Manetti in the early 1970s. At the time, Chianti Classico regulations obligated producers to include white grapes in their wines. Manetti dreamt of something else, a wine that would explore the greatness of Sangiovese. Along with noted oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Manetti created Le Pergole Torte, one of the first 100% Sangioveses made in Chianti Classico. Because it was made outside of appellation laws, the wine carried the humblest of all designations, ‘Vino da Tavola’ But the wine itself was fabulous, and the public soon caught on. In 1990 Manetti bottled a wine that would become an icon, the 1990 Riserva, which was an absurdity on paper, given the inherent contradiction of the terms ‘Vino da Tavola’ and ‘Riserva.’ To add to the irony, years later the Chianti Classico laws were updated. The obligatory use of complimentary white and red grapes was abolished, which meant Le Pergole Torte could be a Chianti Classico, but Manetti never returned to the appellation that had snubbed him. One of the misconceptions about Le Pergole Torte is that it is a single-vineyard wine. That was true of the early years up to the late 1980s. By 1990 Pergole Torte had become a selection of the estate’s best fruit across several parcels, although it wasn’t until 2001 that the fruit was sourced from the same basic complement of vineyards that is used today. Sadly, Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000. Manetti’s son Martino took over and adds that he is fully responsible for every wine beginning with the 2001, where he personally made all the decisions. Le Pergole Torte is vinified in cement. The wine is aged for one year in French oak barrels followed by a second year in cask. Martino Manetti isn’t afraid to call them as he sees them. Manetti describes 1985 and 1997 – both heavily touted years – as overrated. For this tasting, Manetti pulled a selection of vintages from his cellar, all based on their personal significance to him. Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Key Points: 1. 100% Sangiovese from the estate’s best fruit across all of the estate’s vineyards 2. Traditional vinification in cement. Aging first in French oak barrels, then cask 3. A delicate, refined expression of Sangiovese 4. Aging potential: 30+ years
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
Skipping over the nonexistent 2005 vintage, our retrospective brought us to the dark and bold 2004 Le Pergole Torte. This wine still appears behind in its evolution. It was a bit closed and shut down from an aromatic point of view. Nothing too bad, but you notice this in the context of the other vintages presented here together. The bouquet shows dark mineral notes of campfire ash and crushed granite with dried berry and crushed peppercorn at the back. There is an inner spiciness to the flavor profile. The mouthfeel is rich and fuller in body compared to most of the other recent vintages. Firm tannins play an important role.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Skipping over the nonexistent 2005 vintage, our retrospective brought us to the dark and bold 2004 Le Pergole Torte. This wine still appears behind in its evolution. It was a bit closed and shut down from an aromatic point of view. Nothing too bad, but you notice this in the context of the other vintages presented here together. The bouquet shows dark mineral notes of campfire ash and crushed granite with dried berry and crushed peppercorn at the back. There is an inner spiciness to the flavor profile. The mouthfeel is rich and fuller in body compared to most of the other recent vintages. Firm tannins play an important role.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
A real rockstar, the 2004 Le Pergole Torte is hard to taste in this vertical, as it is incredibly young and primary. The signature are there - expressive, soaring aromatics, silky tannins and superb persistence - but the 2004 needs at least a few years to show the full breadth of its personality. As always, the 2004 is lithe, delicate and gracious, with stunning harmony and purity. Today, the 2004 comes across as a slightly more refined version of the 2001, a vintage with which it has quite a bit in common. A few more years of cellaring will only help. The 2004 is a Pergole Torte of pure sensuality. What a wine!
About the Producer
Montevertein is located in the heart of the Chianti hills, in the town of Lada, Chianti, at 425 meters above sea level. The winery grows only the indigenous grape varieties of the Chianti region: Sangiovese, Canajolo and Corolino. At Montevertine, simplicity, respect, extreme attention to detail and expertise are the guiding principles that inspire our daily work. The winery's winemaking methods are very traditional and have remained so since the first harvest. Hand-picked grapes are fermented in glassed concrete vats without temperature control, and pumping is done twice daily to keep the cap of the skins moist and thus more gently extract the tannins from the skins. After racking, malolactic fermentation begins in glassed concrete vats. Once fermentation is complete, the wine is left in barrels for approximately two years. The wines are aged in 5.5 to 18 hectoliter Slavonian and Ariel oak barrels and 225 liter Ariel oak barrels. The wines of the winery are never filtered, they are bottled by gravity.
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