Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2006
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
Tasted assembled from tank on the eve of its bottling, d'Angerville's 2006 Volnay Champans offers a surprisingly austere and stonily mineral rendition of its site. That said, there is also abundant sweet, lightly-cooked cherry fruit, augmented on the nose by suggestions of talcum and bittersweet herbal extracts. Concentration and a sense of high extract here are by no means incompatible with refinement and buoyancy. I just wish the wine would open up and show a bit more color and seductiveness, but that may come. Certainly this will be good for at least 6-8 years. Like his illustrious father, Guillaume d’Angerville and estate director (and brother-in-law) Renaud de Villette have beaten the odds with their gentle art of winemaking (inter alia short maceration, no pigeage, promotion of late malo, low levels of new wood) in far more difficult vintages than 2006, so the generally high quality of their recent collection comes as no surprise. They waited until late September, and then brought in their entire crop in only five days. I have not had a chance to taste the d'Angerville generic and village wines, nor their Champans since it was bottled. Incidentally, this estate continues to routinely give its wines a course plaque filtration. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
