Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2012
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was showing signs of closing down since I tasted it the previous year. There are still those strawberry and cranberry aromas but they are hidden in this wine's tight fist. The palate is medium-bodied, the tannins just hardened up since 2014, very well balanced as before and yet the structure is more pronounced on the finish. It may go into a sulk for two or three years, so do not be afraid to put this away in your cellar.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans had not finished its malolactic fermentation but even so, it suggests a crisp and delineated, perhaps brittle nose that displays fine focus and transparency. The palate is cohesive with firm tannins and good backbone. It just needs to develop a little more complexity on the finish although that will probably come once the malolactic is finished. This is one to watch. Tucked away in the heart of the village of Volnay just behind the church is Domaine Marquis d'Angerville. It was my final appointment of the day, so unfortunately I was unable to stop and admire the grand maison that has remained in the hands of d'Angerville family since 1804. This is an estate that I have followed for over a dozen vintages, including one or two verticals of their premier crus. And yet, I had never visited the winery until now. Perhaps I could have chosen a more opportune vintage. Co-proprietor Guillaume d'Angerville, who owns the estate with Renaud de Vilette, son and son-in-law of the previous marquis Jacques d'Angerville, showed me the forlorn sight of his vacant barrel cellar, relieved of its expected guests by back-to-back seasons plagued by poor flowering and hail damage. I was just waiting for the tumbleweed to bounce across the cellar. Still, Guillaume did have his 2012s to show me. "In 2012 we had a fairly poor spring," he explained. "The number of grapes was small and the flowering was not easy. There was a major hailstorm on June 30, but this was actually preceded by a violent attack of mildew, which unusually had not attacked the leaves, but the berries directly. We came into the harvest thinking what else could go wrong. So we had a lot of sorting to do. And later I have found that the elevage has not gone as smoothly in a half-empty cellar. Maybe it has something to do with the symbiosis between the barrels? Perhaps they react with each other? Perhaps it explains the late malolactics as well. Then again, at the end of the day, the most challenging thing will be how to allocate the crop." One other point that he mentioned was that hail impacted less upon the style of the wines than he expected, for example, they do not seem to suffer hard finishes. As usual, the vinification is very straightforward with around 20% new oak for all the crus (indeed, he returned his barrels to the tonnellerie rather than increasing the ratio.) As with some many growers in this locale, his was a truncated portfolio deprived of some of its feted premier crus. Since 2006, the estate's vineyards have been converted to biodynamics under chef de culture Francois Duvivier, therefore I had to ask the predictable question of whether natural preparations had adequately steeled the vineyard against the constant threat of mildew attack in the early season, but Guillaume explained that the vines put up their own natural defences and he had not encountered much problem in that regard. These were taut, linear wines; almost brittle upon first acquaintance due to the acidity and strictness/linearity of the tannins, but they repaid patience, unfolding in the glass to reveal hidden intensity, locked away deep in the core of these Volnays. At first appearance, I felt that they lacked the depth to merit long-term aging but I suspect they will ultimately prove me wrong. Marquis d'Angerville's wines have fans from afar. In a rare moment of cross-regional exploration, in the pitch black of the courtyard, I bumped into no less than Baptiste Guinaudeau of Chateau Lafleur, arriving for his own barrel tasting. Let's hope Pomerol never suffers a season like Volnay has done in 2012 or 2013 and if he does, well then I am sure Guillaume offered sage advice on how to cope. Importer: Grand Cru Selections, 5 West 19th Street, 3rd Floor, Suite 3R (NY) Tel; 917-261-6628 and the Rare Wine Company (NY).
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a generous bouquet of vibrant strawberry and cranberry fruit inter-layered with fine mineralite. The palate is medium-bodied with similar tannins to the Taillepiers, i.e. silky and almost Vosne-like, but here there is a touch more density towards the rounded finish. Drink 2015-2028.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Healthy dark red. Still a hint of leesy reduction to the aromas of dark raspberry and smoke. Powerful and penetrating but youthfully tight, with remarkably sweet dark fruit flavors and a texture of liquid velvet perfectly countered by excellent harmonious acidity. Boasts terrific thrust but for all its power, depth and sucrosité this premier cru seems less massive than the Frémiet. The tannins are firm but suave.
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
