Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2016
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans has a much more introspective bouquet, broody at first and only reluctantly opening. There is plenty of black fruit here, but it is tightly coiled. The palate is more open and cannot disguise the plush blackberry and raspberry fruit. Perhaps compared to the Taillepieds it has less tension and nervosité? Conversely, while the nose is bashful, you end up appreciating the generosity on the finish but I wonder whether the Taillepieds will ultimately bestow the most intellect and terroir expression?
Reviewed by: William Kelley
In contrast to the precocious 2017, the 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans is tight-knit and reserved and will demand patience. Offering up aromas of plums, cherries, violets, dark chocolate and forest floor, the wine is, medium to full-bodied, chewy and firm, with lovely depth at the core but an imposing, muscular chassis of fine-grained tannin that asserts itself on the finish. I have no concerns about the balance of this Champans, but readers should plan on waiting at least a dozen years before pulling corks.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
(the entire bottom of this vineyard was fried by frost, according to régisseur François Duvivier): Bright, dark red-ruby. Medicinal blueberry and licorice aromas are lifted by a minty high note; less showy and more restrained on the nose than the Taillepieds and Caillerets today. Then wonderfully dense, primary and pure on the palate, but more vertical and less opulent than the Taillepieds and Caillerets. Strong mineral energy accentuates the impression of vibrancy. A bit less open to inspection today owing to its firm tannic spine.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
In contrast to the precocious 2017, the 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans is tight-knit and reserved and will demand patience. Offering up aromas of plums, cherries, violets, dark chocolate and forest floor, the wine is, medium to full-bodied, chewy and firm, with lovely depth at the core but an imposing, muscular chassis of fine-grained tannin that asserts itself on the finish. I have no concerns about the balance of this Champans, but readers should plan on waiting at least a dozen years before pulling corks.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
(the entire bottom of this vineyard was fried by frost, according to régisseur François Duvivier): Bright, dark red-ruby. Medicinal blueberry and licorice aromas are lifted by a minty high note; less showy and more restrained on the nose than the Taillepieds and Caillerets today. Then wonderfully dense, primary and pure on the palate, but more vertical and less opulent than the Taillepieds and Caillerets. Strong mineral energy accentuates the impression of vibrancy. A bit less open to inspection today owing to its firm tannic spine.
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
