Wine Advisor
Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Volnay Champans is frankly in another class. Waves of fruit flow across the palate in stunning style. Rose petals, berries and sweet spices are among the nuances that emerge over time. Silky tannins frame the exceptionally long, refined finish. It is a fabulous effort from d’Angerville. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. The harvest at d’Angerville started on September 9. Guillaume d’Angerville told me that in recent years he has doubled the number of pickers with the goal of harvesting all of the fruit in just a few days. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Cuvaison started with 3-4 days of cold maceration at a modestly cool temperature followed by two weeks on the skins with no punchdowns and a generally soft approach to extraction. After pressing, the wines were moved into barrel. The estate did one racking after the malos. New oak was on average 20-25%. In 2009 the estate completed a conversion to biodynamic farming started in 2006. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The Champans is a little more introverted than the Fremiets, but there is wonderful definition here. The palate has a crisp, mineral rich entry, the citrus element quite pronounced here, fanning out beautifully towards the pert, slightly savoury finish. Tasted January 2011.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Volnay Champans shows good up-front intensity but then loses much of its persistence on the mid-palate. The slightly forward nature of some of the aromas and flavors, and the wine’s modest structure both suggest it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I tasted the 2009s from D’Angerville twice recently, once at the winery in December 2011 and a second time in my office in New York. The Volnay, Volnay 1er and Volnay Champans were all less impressive than the first time I tasted those wines, just after botting. Time will tell if the wines are going through a closed phase today, or if I overrated them the first time around. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2009 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was tasted against the 2011, the latter much more expressive and approachable. Speaking to Guillaume d'Angerville himself, seated next to me, I remarked that I thought the 2009 was closing down and he agreed. It has lost its initial exuberance - a bouquet that appears to have closed in on itself. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, stoic and a tad introverted, moody even, slightly grainy in texture with just a touch of piquancy on the finish. I am sure this will ultimately come good, but this is a surly Volnay for the patient. Those without it ought to head for the 2007 or 2011 vintages.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
In a vintage in which so many wines are all about intensity, 2009 Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Champans (magnum) impresses for its perfume, delineated fruit and fabulous overall balance. Refined and impeccable in its sense of restraint, the 2009 is so very pretty and expressive. Silky tannins round out the racy, polished finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. 94
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Volnay Champans shows good up-front intensity but then loses much of its persistence on the mid-palate. The slightly forward nature of some of the aromas and flavors, and the wine's modest structure both suggest it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Good medium red. Deep but closed nose hints at cherry, herbs and damp earth. Then large-scaled and explosive in the mouth, with a compellingly creamy quality to its red fruit and licorice flavors. Approachable now for its sheer sweetness and generous mouthfeel, this thick but shapely wine nonetheless needs time in the cellar to show more complexity. According to Guillaume d'Angerville, the 2009s refined themselves during their last months of elevage.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Bright, deep red. High-pitched, floral aromas of cherry, licorice, bitter chocolate and wild herbs. Enters the mouth sweet, but bright acidity, peppery lift and a saline element give this premier cru a rather serious middle. Really saturates the palate on the back end, finishing with repeating notes of pepper, salty minerality and terrific lingering perfume.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Volnay Champans shows good up-front intensity but then loses much of its persistence on the mid-palate. The slightly forward nature of some of the aromas and flavors, and the wine's modest structure both suggest it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.
About the Producer
History Domaine Marquis D'Angerville began in the 19th century. In 1804, Baron du Mesnil, the sub-prefect of Autun in Burgundy commune acquires property Clos des Ducs in Volnay - the heart of the appellation Côte de Beaune. Surrounding areas were formerly part of the famous vineyards of Burgundy Dukes Taillepieds, Caillerets and Champans. After the phylloxera epidemic, devastating vineyards in the late 19th century, the nephew and godson Baron du Mesnil, Marquis Sam d'Arzhenvy begins restoration of historic vineyards, re-planting of Pinot Noir grapes. A staunch supporter of "authentic wines" d'Arzhenvy opposes corrupt wine merchants, whose reputation is not always perfect. He becomes the first manufacturer in the region of bottled wines, independently engaged and their subsequent implementation. Due to its unwavering commitment to quality and authenticity of the products d'Arzhenvy Sam was one of the founders of the National Institute of Origin and Quality (l'Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, (INAO)). Son of Sam d'Arzhenvy Jacques d'Arzhenvy, created his first vintage in 1945, and in 1952 he takes control of the estate. Following the tradition of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Jacques convinced that all the great wines are produced directly in the vineyards, and their success depends on the quality and the low yields of old vines. This approach, according to him, is more reasonable and effective than the "green fee" or thinning. Thus, after decades of observations and work on the selection of the best examples of Pinot Noir, the family d'Angerville received special honor to grow Pinot Noir under the naming "Pinot d'Angerville". From 1982 to 1987, Jacques d'Arzhenvy is chairman and honorary president of the Wine Academy of France. Throughout his life he devoted to the creation of the great wines of Volnay. After his father's death in 2003 his son William took control of the estate d'Arzhenvy in their hands, keeping the tradition of the manor transition from generation to generation. Currently he helps agronomist Renaud de Villette, who worked with Jacques d'Arzhenvy for fifteen years.
