M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon 2005

robert_parker98

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Any young readers with plenty of discretionary income and good DNA for longevity should check out the opaque purple-colored 2005 Ermitage Le Pavillon. A monumental wine made from 15 hectoliters per hectare, the wine has an inky purple color to the rim and an extraordinary nose of acacia flowers, graphite, blackberry, and creme de cassis. With huge body, monster tannins, but elevated acidity, this is a primordial beast of a wine, yet the brilliant harmony/symmetry and profound character are easily the hallmark of a prodigy in the making. Give it 10-15 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 75-100. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker98

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

The biggest production cuvee, the 2005 Ermitage Le Pavillon (1,067 cases in this vintage) has a dense purple color, the classic acacia flower, graphite-based, smoky creme de cassis nose with a tremendous intensity and a full-bodied power and richness that is awesome. These are monumental wines, and when you think that this wine, much like most of its siblings, is made from yields of 12-18 hectoliters per hectare, the explanation for its concentration and extraordinary expression of terroir is obvious. With twenty vintages under his belt, Michel Chapoutier and his impressive winemaking staff go from strength to strength. These are among the world’s greatest wines, especially the single vineyard wines, many of which will last 50 or more years.The 2006 reds from Chapoutier display good acidity and freshness. If they lack the powerful tannic structures of the 2005s, and perhaps some of that vintage’s density, they are certainly not light wines. It is a vintage of finesse and concentration, but with considerable up-front charm. Again, 1991 is a useful historic reference. They are the perfect foil for those buying 2005s, which will require deferred gratification. The single-vineyard, or as Chapoutier calls them, the “Selections Parcellaires” wines, are all aged in small barrels, often 100% new oak, and bottled with neither fining nor filtration. Production is relatively small, with the tiniest cuvee, the Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonnieres usually 200-325 cases, and the rest of the single-vineyard wines averaging around 480-625 cases. The largest is usually the St.-Joseph Les Granits or the Ermitage Le Pavillon, which can be as high as 1,000 or so cases in an abundant vintage. Again, the 2005s all exhibit the vintage’s density, tannic structure, and long-term aging potential. At the same time, the 2006s at Chapoutier remind me of 1991, initially an underrated vintage of wines with ideal balance. If they lack the pure power and structure of 2005, they are well-served by their purity and equilibrium. There are four single-vineyard cuvees of Ermitage. Production is small, running from about 275-300 cases of Les Greffieux, 480-500 of Le Meal, 800-1,100 for Le Pavillon, and 200-600 for L’Ermite Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker100

Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck

My favorite of the 2005s from Chapoutier, the 2005 Ermitage Le Pavillon is a heavenly wine that comes from one of the greatest sites for Syrah in the world, the steep, granite-dominated hillside of les Bessards. Getting a bevy of expletives in my notes, this insanely good Hermitage offers classic notes of smoked meats, charcoal, liquid rock, burning embers, chocolate and cassis, as well as a thick, unctuous and massively concentrated style on the palate. Changing in the glass, with exotic aromatics, incredible purity and building, polished tannin, Syrah doesn’t get any better. Given the youthful profile here, I’m sure this will see its 50th birthday in fine form, but it still delivers plenty of pleasure today given its texture, purity and balance.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

A deep garnet/ruby hue. The nose here is more broody than Meal with blackberry, raspberry and garrigue scents. Just a little reductive. The palate is still a little disjointed, quite tannic and masculine, more aggressive than the other Ermitages. Broody and sullen, foursquare on the finish. Keep at bay for at least a decade by it has masses of potential. Tasted October 2006. Drinking 2015-2035

vinous93

Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds

Inky ruby. Deep, brooding and initially inscrutable, with uncannily concentrated blackberry and cassis scents. Rich dark fruit preserve flavors seem almost solid, but there's wonderful vivacity too. Picks up supple tannins on the finish, which leaves a tattoo of black and blue fruits on the palate. Extremely primary right now.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds

Opaque black ruby. Deep, concentrated cherry, cassis and mulberry aromas, with bright floral and mineral accents. Extremely intense, with a sweet raspberry note adding complexity and a suave aspect to the wine's darker fruit flavors. Wonderfully pure and vibrant on the finish, which is gently tannic and shows outstanding concentration.