Wine Advisor
M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon 1990
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Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at "The Sampler's" icon tasting in London. The Le Pavillon 1990 has a gorgeous, gamey bouquet with mulberry, sandalwood, dried herbs, a touch of peppermint and smoke. The palate is medium-bodied and does not quite match the nose, perhaps a little dry after 21 years, with some a hardness poking through on the savoury, meaty finish. This is probably past its peak. Tasted December 2011.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1989 Hermitage-Le Pavillon, which I have now had on four different occasions, is indeed one of the most extraordinary young wines I have ever tasted. It should last for 30-40 years. Only 600 cases were made. Yet I must admit that the 1990 Hermitage-Le Pavillon (also 600 cases) is as compelling as the 1989. It exhibits slightly less opulence, but more power and weight. Black-colored, with an extraordinary perfume of licorice, sweet blackcurrants, smoke, and minerals, it coats the palate with layer upon layer of decadently rich, super-concentrated, nearly viscous Syrah flavors. There is amazing glycerin, a chewy, unctuous texture, and phenomenal length. The tannins, which are considerable when analyzed, are virtually obscured by the massive quantities of fruit. I hope I live to see the day when Chapoutier's 1990 Hermitage-Le Pavillon, Chave's 1990 Hermitage, and Jaboulet's 1990 Hermitage-La Chapelle are fully mature! What a trio of wines these three producers have produced from this historic appellation! My best guess for the aging potential of the Hermitage-Le Pavillon is that it is more forward than both the Chave and Jaboulet Hermitages, but should you have the good fortune to find a bottle or two, do not open it for at least 7-10 years. It should last for 30-40 years. The young Michel Chapoutier continues his quest of cultivating his vineyards in an organic fashion, and turning out wines that reflect the soil, the grape, and the vintage. These concentrated (because of low yields) wines are made with minimal intervention by the winemaker. Chapoutier did extremely well with his northern Rhone vineyards in 1991. Last year I reported that Chapoutier had made a perfect wine from 70-80 year old vines that rendered only 14 hectoliters per hectare. Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1990 Le Pavilion is as compelling as the 1989. It exhibits slightly less opulence, but more power and weight. Black colored, with an extraordinary perfume of licorice, sweet blackcurrants, smoke, and minerals, it coats the palate with layer upon layer of decadently rich, superconcentrated, nearly viscous Syrah flavors. There is amazing glycerin, a chewy, unctuous texture, and phenomenal length. The tannins, which are considerable when analyzed, are virtually obscured by the massive quantities of fruit. I hope I live to see the day when Chapoutier's 1990 Ermitage Le Pavilion, Chave's 1990 Hermitage, and Jaboulet's 1990 Hermitage La Chapelle are fully mature! What a trio of wines these three producers have produced from this historic appellation! My best guess for the aging potential of the Ermitage Le Pavilion is that it is more forward than both the Chave and Jaboulet Hermitages, but should you have the good fortune to find a bottle or two, do not open it for at least 7-10 years. It should last for 30-40 years. Last tasted 12/95.
About the Producer
Founded in 1808, M. Chapoutier owns 175 hectares of vines in five appellations in the Rhone Valley and is now run by the energetic and brilliant Michel Chapoutier. Since Michel started running the estate, the quality of the winemaking has improved very quickly and the philosophy of winemaking has changed considerably. Michel Chapoutier's achievements caused an instant sensation in the winemaking world and he completely changed the way Chapoutier wines were made and the winemaking process, eventually making wines to rival those made by Marcel Guigal, one of the best winemakers in the Rhone Valley. The vineyards of Château Sapoutier range from the Rhone Valley to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with a number of quality vineyards planted with Syrah, Grenache, Marsanne, Roussanne and other major grape varieties. The winery is "mono-varietal" (i.e. making wines from a single variety), for example, all Syrah for the Châteauneuf-du-Rotie wines, all Marsanne for the Hermitage whites and all Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines. The wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are all Grenache. Château Sapoutier has worked tirelessly to improve the quality of its wines, even though each single vineyard produces far more than the 500 cases of fine wine. Since 1989, Château Sapoutier has been using biodynamic farming and winemaking methods with the aim of producing wines that are the purest and closest to the natural terroir. Every decision, every step of the viticultural and winemaking process is designed to add to the terroir, varietal character and vintage identity of the wines. Only wild yeasts are used for fermentation and the wines are made in small oak barrels. The best red and white wines are not clarified or filtered before bottling.
1989(1)
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