M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon 2012

robert_parker100

Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck

The 2012 Ermitage Le Pavillon, which comes all from the granite soils of the Les Bessards lieu-dit, is the most complete of the Hermitage releases and offers that rare mix of decadence and elegance. Offering up notions of creme de cassis, black raspberry, liquid mineral, charred earth and crushed flowers, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, awesome concentration and a texture that’s to die for. It will need 5-7 years of cellaring and evolve gracefully for upwards of two decades or more. This was an incredible tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his second hand man, Pierre-Henri Morel. Certainly one of the success stories in wine, which Robert Parker does a fabulous job of detailing in Issue 204, this estate goes from strength to strength in just about every appellation in the Rhone Valley. Looking specifically at Hermitage, Chapoutier owns a massive 64 acres, mostly on the famed Bessards lieu-dit, yet also with significant portions on Le Meal, L’Ermite and Les Greffieux, with smaller portions in the Beaume and Murets lieux-dits. From this he fashions five reds (Monier De La Sizeranne, Les Greffieux, Le Meal, Le Pavillon and L’Ermite) and four whites (Chante Alouette, Cuvee de l’Oree, Le Meal Blanc and L’Ermite Blanc), all of which are brilliant wines, with the best ranking up alongside the top wines in the world. In addition, his Saint Josephs (Les Granits and Le Clos) are some of the leading wines of the appellation (along with Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice and a few others), and his Cote Rotie La Mordoree, which comes from his 12 acres (split between the roughly defined Cote Blonde and Cote Brune regions), is always a classic example of the appellation. I was also able to taste through a full lineup of his Languedoc and Roussillon releases, all of which were impressive. I’ll review those wines in my 2014 coverage on those regions. Looking at the 2011 whites, these were all tasted by Robert Parker last year, but since I tasted through the lineup, I opted to include reviews here as well. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

robert_parker100

Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck

Sharing some similarities to the le Meal (yet its from a very different terroir), with its full-bodied, decadent, heavenly profile that somehow stays pure, poised and elegant, the 2012 Ermitage le Pavillon (767 cases) offers an extraordinary perfume of cassis, raspberries, crushed flowers, powdered rock and smoked earth. Coming all from the granite soils of the les Bessards lieu-dit, which produces some of the most muscular, concentrated wines on the planet, this serious 2012 is more approachable than either the 2009 or 2010, yet certainly is at the same level of quality. Give it 6-7 years in the cellar and enjoy it through 2042.

vinous94

Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds

(made entirely from fruit grown in Bessards, from vines that range from 40 to 60 years in age; 25% new oak): Saturated purple. Pungent smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of dark berry preserves, dried cherry, pipe tobacco, licorice and incense. Stains the palate with intense blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors, becoming deeper, sweeter and spicier with air. Packs a very serious punch but comes off as lithe and precise, finishing with excellent length and silky, slowly emerging tannins.

vinous96

Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds

Inky purple. Lively, incisive aromas of blackberry, cassis, smoky minerals, licorice and pungent flowers. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, with bright acidity adding lift to the intense black and blue fruit flavors. Becomes spicier and more floral with air, finishing with outstanding energy and thrust and youthful firming tannins.