Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage 2005

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Tasting through all the different vineyards of 2005, this is another vintage that is structured and powerful, with some cuvees such as Les Bessards hitting 16% natural alcohol. The wines had not even been racked, yet there were no signs of reduction in any of the cuvees. The 2005 Hermitage displays the classic creme de cassis notes, road tar, hints of roasted meats, with strong floral and mineral characteristics. Full-bodied, powerful, and rich, this will be a backward style of wine. The wine has sensational richness and plenty of structure in a masculine, firm, yet elegant style. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+. I reviewed them last year and gave them perfect scores, but before leaving the cellars, I had the privilege of retasting the 2003 red Hermitage (about 16% natural alcohol) and the 2003 red Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin (2400 bottles produced, and the Chaves aren’t sure whether they will ever release the wine commercially). Both wines exhibited extraordinary richness and possess a singularly profound identity, but I couldn’t swallow them without saluting a lost friend. Steve “The Ho” Verlin, who often visited Chave with me, tragically passed away a year ago at a very young age. Among all the great wines he loved, bought, drank, and celebrated, some of his favorites were the wines of Chave. We had tasted the 2003s here together when they were infants, and again when they were in bottle, utterly perfect. I like to think Steve was here in spirit, enjoying the moment and standing next to me and the Chaves. Here’s to you, Steve! People still obsess about the red wines of Chave, but of course his whites are spectacular as well, and as I have always said, one of the most educational stops on my trips is tasting through the different cuvees that emerge from separate sites on the hills of Hermitage. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

robert_parker94

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

The 2005 Hermitage is a frighteningly backward, tannic, broodingly dense, formidable wine. Its dense purple color is followed by notions of road tar, spring flowers, camphor, creme de cassis, licorice, and earth. It displays high tannin, huge extract and richness, with fresh acidity. I agree with the Chaves that this is a vintage for those with patience as this wine needs a decade of cellaring. 1983 might be the closest vintage of comparison, but overall, I think the winemaking and selection process at Chave are far greater today than they were 25 years ago. Readers with good DNA and youth on their side are the only ones who should purchase this monster Hermitage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+. A bastion of traditionalism and terroir-sensitive winemaking, the Chaves, both father Gerard and son Jean-Louis, continue to establish higher and higher standards for artisanal, high quality winemaking without manipulation or compromise. As I have said many times in the past, after more than two dozen visits to their cellars in Mauves, the Chave address remains one of the most extraordinary places of learning in the wine world. Most importantly, they have had a remarkable succession of successful vintages that began in 1994. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

robert_parker97

Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck

Jean Louis Chave commented that 2005 was not a “friendly vintage” on release and compared it to 1998, 1995 and 1983 in style. His 2005 Hermitage is nevertheless an incredible wine that shines for its purity, focus and pure class. Offering up lots of granite-like minerality, crème de cassis, violets and graphite, this rich, full-bodied, gorgeously concentrated Hermitage has good acidity, building, ripe tannin and a fabulous finish. While I’d happily drink a glass today, it needs another 3-4 years of bottle age to hit prime time and will keep for two to three decades after that.

robert_parker96

Reviewed by: Neal Martin

Tasted from Yapp’s reserves at a private vertical. This has great intensity on the nose with notes of cranberry, raspberry, crushed stones and wild hedgerow – it just soars from the glass. The palate is full-bodied, sinewy but beautifully balanced, a very insistent Hermitage with briary, minerals, blackberry and a touch of sous-bois towards the long, long finish. Wow: an astounding Hermitage. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted March 2009.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Made in a totally different style, the masculine, backward 2005 Hermitage exhibits an inky/dark ruby/purple color along with aromas of graphite, creme de cassis, licorice, roasted herbs, and scorched earth. The minerality and tannins dominate this gamy, thick, rich 2005, which, given its tannic structure, is closest in style to a vintage such as 1995 or 1998. Give it 7-10 more years of cellaring, and drink it over the following three decades. One of my favorite true and authentic vignerons to visit is the Chave family, located in the tiny, one-horse village of Mauves, just south of Tournon. The son, Jean-Louis, is taking over the reins more and more, but his father, Gerard, is still involved even though he is officially retired. As always, these wines performed brilliantly. Readers should keep in mind that the reviews of the 2007 white Hermitage and 2007 red Hermitage are a matter of extrapolating from tasting all the separate vineyards that go into these wines. That said, the Chaves appear to be ratcheting up their quality level because of a Draconian selection process in the vineyard as well as in the winery. The Chave estate wines’ finest value is St.-Joseph (5,000 bottles produced in each vintage), which comes from hillside vines planted in pure schist just outside their home village of Mauves. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900