Wine Advisor
Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage 1996
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
A late vintage that’s compared to 2013 by Jean-Louis, yet that carried more crop, the 1996 Hermitage is a juicy, medium-bodied effort that’s ready to go. Giving up classic herbed game, bacon fat and sweet fruit, it should continue to evolve gracefully, but there’s no reason to hold off here. Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Tasting though the different barrels of the 1996 vintage gave me the impression that this Chave Hermitage will merit a score in the 90-93 point range. The vintage's high acidity is present, but it is not as tart at Chave as it is in some other cellars. The 1996 Hermitage cuvees boast extraordinarily dense black/purple colors, fabulous purity of cassis, fruit, earth, and in at least half the cuvees, amazing opulence and length. This should turn out to be a classic Hermitage with 25+ years of longevity. How accessible it will be young remains to be seen, as I am not sure whether the fruit or acid will dominate at bottling. The Chaves, Gerard and Jean-Louis, said the key to a highly successful 1996 harvest (and they certainly had one) was to 1) harvest very late, 2) have pruned back to keep yields low, and 3) exploit the fabulous weather during late September and early October. They acknowledged that the cool August and cold September in the northern Rhone, and the resultant high acidity, allowed them to delay the harvest as the acidity precluded any fear of maladies attacking the grapes. The Chaves feel 1996 is an exceptional vintage for only a handful of people, but in these instances, the 1996s will equal the finest wines of 1991. The notes in this segment are a compilation of tasting through all the white wine cuvees, which had not yet been assembled, as well as the red wine cuvees. Since son Jean-Louis joined father Gerard, there have been subtle refinements in the winemaking program. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted from Yapp’s reserves at a private vertical. This has a soft, slightly bretty nose with blackberry, tobacco, iodine and a touch of seaweed, moderate lift. Medium-bodied on the palate, hints of mulberry, red-berried fruit, tobacco and white pepper. It does not appear to be as structured as when last tasted in 2005. Moderate complexity, rather linear and quite rounded on the finish that just lacks a little persistency. Drink now-2015. Tasted March 2009.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A very deep colour. An attractive, more masculine nose than the 1995 with tobacco, dried leaves and cooked meat. Good definition on the palate though it does not have the grip of the 1995. Mulberry and plum on the mid-palate. A bit "chunky" perhaps, but is has an honesty and joie-de-vivre, which I adore. Crisp, almost citrus finish with a few rough edges. Still and excellent wine perhaps unfairly over-shadowed by the 1995. Tasted August 2005.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1996 red Hermitage possesses the vintage's tangy acidity, as well as a saturated ruby/purple color, and copious quantities of smoke, cassis, fennel, and minerals in the moderately intense, still young aromatics. The wine displays beautiful balance, outstanding purity, and a medium-bodied, rich, elegant personality. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2030. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524
