Wine Advisor
Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage 1999
View analysis
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
More in the style of the ’01, the 1999 Hermitage is a serious effort that gives up a mineral-drenched profile of red and blackcurrants, beef blood, iron and dried flowers. More forward on the nose than the palate, with a tight, yet seamless texture that carries ample concentration and length, with bright acidity, it should continue to shine for another decade. Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted from Yapp’s reserves at a private vertical. A brilliant Hermitage from J-L Chave. A deep garnet core with ruby rim. The nose is very intense with blackberry, wild hedgerow, smoke, flint and a touch of Provencal herbs. Wonderful definition and it builds and builds in intensity in the glass, evolving more black liquorices scents. The palate is full-bodied, symmetrical, very good weight and density – this is a long-term behemoth. Pure and vibrant. Notes of black plum, iodine, tar and blueberry, an Hermitage that swells with pride – just as it should. An ebullient Chave. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted March 2009.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
A very deep ruby colour. The nose is quite backward and broody with gun-smoke and tobacco. The palate has superb balance, though much tighter, less expressive than the 1998 at this stage. An elegant, symmetrical wine: primal and broody. Very focused and penetrating. Leave it for 15 years, because I think this will surpass even the 1998. Tasted August 2005.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Remember this! Chave's 1999 Hermitage rouge is undoubtedly the greatest wine made at this estate since 1990. Every cuvee tasted (the wine has not yet been assembled) was absolutely thrilling. I rated the component parts conservatively, from (92-95) for Les Rocoules, Les Beaumes, and Les Dionnieres, to (96-100) for L'Ermite, Meal, and Les Bessards. All of the cuvees represent the quintessence of Syrah, with black/purple colors, gorgeous bouquets of blackberries, cassis, mineral, and spice, and a viscosity and thickness that has not been produced chez Chave since 1990. The assemblage will be done in late spring and early summer, 2001, with the Chaves' severe selection probably resulting in about 20% of each component being sold to negociants. This insures the impeccably high quality level of their estate wines. No doubt there will be a Cuvee Cathelin culled from this impressive array of raw materials. The 1999 Hermitage will be atypically gorgeous to drink at a relatively young age, yet have three decades or more of aging potential. It is the fattest, most opulent and viscous red Hermitage since their 1990. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The dense saturated purple-colored 1999 Hermitage had been bottled only 24 hours before my visit. It is a brilliant effort. The wine exhibits fabulous texture, purity, and sweetness as well as a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. There is high tannin, remarkably rich, concentrated extract, and tell-tale Hermitage fruit characteristics (blackberries, cassis), minerals, and spice. This is the greatest vintage Chave has produced since 1990. While it requires 7-10 years of cellaring, it will last for 4-5 decades. When I arrived at 6:00 p.m., September 11, 2001, at Domaine Chave, I found Chave in tears and his family distraught. I had heard about the attacks on the World Trade Center, but not the subsequent collapse of both towers. Gerard Chave knows all about suicidal bombers, having served in the French military during the Algerian revolution. It took a long time to gather sufficient focus to do my tastings. However, the brilliant wines that unfolded in the cellars were, at least for several hours, a much needed antidote for pushing to the back of my mind the horror of 9-11-01. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
